ECN Electrical Forum - Discussion Forums for Electricians, Inspectors and Related Professionals
ECN Shout Chat
ShoutChat
Recent Posts
Increasing demand factors in residential
by gfretwell - 03/28/24 12:43 AM
Portable generator question
by Steve Miller - 03/19/24 08:50 PM
Do we need grounding?
by NORCAL - 03/19/24 05:11 PM
240V only in a home and NEC?
by dsk - 03/19/24 06:33 AM
Cordless Tools: The Obvious Question
by renosteinke - 03/14/24 08:05 PM
New in the Gallery:
This is a new one
This is a new one
by timmp, September 24
Few pics I found
Few pics I found
by timmp, August 15
Who's Online Now
1 members (CoolWill), 250 guests, and 13 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Page 2 of 4 1 2 3 4
#53066 06/20/05 01:58 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 72
B
Member
So what is an acceptible voltage for a 120v device?
A toster would work ok. shorter or longer life?
A computer, shorter or longer?
would some devices have tollerance of some range. like (+)(-) 5% or something?

#53067 06/20/05 03:52 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,923
Likes: 32
G
Member
Thew only thing I seem to have a problem with is light bulbs. I buy 130v when I can.


Greg Fretwell
#53068 06/20/05 08:08 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,445
Likes: 2
Cat Servant
Member
Bucketman, UL tests most everything to +10% and -15% of the nameplate voltage. Keep in mind that this is testing for SAFETY- there is no expectation that the thing will work properly.
NEMA motor standards use the same range for motor operation.

#53069 06/21/05 01:25 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 329
I
Member
"So what is an acceptible voltage for a 120v device?
A toster would work ok. shorter or longer life?
A computer, shorter or longer?
would some devices have tollerance of some range. like (+)(-) 5% or something?"

Being that a toaster is juste a heated element (like a lightbulb) I would say higher voltage would shorten it's life but how much I don't know. It would make toast faster [Linked Image] As for computers, they use switching power supplies and they would just alter thier duty cycle to compensate for voltage changes, which they are designed for anyway. So, I don't think it will make much difference there. As to acceptable variations I think UL suggests(requires?) something like 108 to 132 volts. Could be misttaken though.

#53070 06/21/05 07:08 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,520
P
Member
Quote
> Belgium still has 220Y/127 distribution, but now with all loads connected phase-to-phase to get 220.

I wonder where you found this info. It might be the case in a couple of small villages and even very local areas of old towns (though I doubt it) but 127V is an obsolete standard and it is very rare now.

It was our friend "Belgian" who mentioned it on the forum here a few months ago. I can't remember if it was where he lives or somewhere nearby which he said is still wired this way..

Eli, if you're reading this, perhaps you could help us out! [Linked Image]

Quote
but also Saudi Arabia, have 127/220V (60 Hz) as one of several systems.
I should have remembered that one. They seem to use British fittings for some (all?) of their work, and the MK (British) catalog lists UK-style dimmers for 127V, as well as NEMA 5-15 configuration receptacles but on a British plate.

#53071 06/23/05 08:46 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,498
T
Member
Some small rural Communities in Germany, especially close to France still have a 133/230V system w/o neutral. Some guy recently started complaining at another board... "At my aunt's I tried installing a new light and my phase tester glowed on both wires! And then I measured 127V frome each wire to ground, what's wrong there???" Kinda liked that post...
There's one important thing about working on such a system: If it's fused and the circuits aren't labeled, unscrew both phase fuses and not only one!!! Many DIYers will work "if the light's off when i unscrew the fuse it's gotta be safe!" and that's a real abd idea with such a system... you'll still have 127V to ground on one wire.
According to a German expert you'd use the blue wire as a phase in such a system. If I wired in conduit I'd probably prefer black and brown as well as the other accepted phase colors (orange, purple, white, grey, though i'd avoid grey since it used to be neutral).

#53072 12/11/05 06:48 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 869
Likes: 4
R
Member
Odd voltages, as what TEXAS RANGER mentioned 150 Volts. ( they do, did exist )

I have a Moser Baer Masterclock which has primary tappings 110, 125, 145, and 220 Volts.

See if I can make a picture of it

Something at around 145 / 150 V ac must have existed in some parts of Europe otherwise manufacturers wouldn't provide that option.

In older cities in the Netherlands 127 / 220 Volts was used. It is now almost obsolete and mostly 220 Volts is taken between phases.


The product of rotation, excitation and flux produces electricty.
#53073 12/11/05 12:41 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,923
Likes: 32
G
Member
The power at my house is consistantly in the 123-124v range.


Greg Fretwell
#53074 12/12/05 06:07 AM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 202
3
Member
In the earlier part of the 20th century, parts of Adelaide, South Australia had 210 VAC 50 Hz for a while. I remember going to a museum in Adelaide where they had a 240/210 V transformer for when the voltage was changed to the standard 240 VAC

#53075 12/12/05 07:41 AM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,520
P
Member
Parts of the U.K. had 210V as well prior to standardization at 240V. In fact the declared normal voltage in different parts of the country was anything from 200 to 250V in 10V increments, with corresponding 3-ph voltages.

Page 2 of 4 1 2 3 4

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5