So what is an acceptible voltage for a 120v device? A toster would work ok. shorter or longer life? A computer, shorter or longer? would some devices have tollerance of some range. like (+)(-) 5% or something?
Bucketman, UL tests most everything to +10% and -15% of the nameplate voltage. Keep in mind that this is testing for SAFETY- there is no expectation that the thing will work properly. NEMA motor standards use the same range for motor operation.
"So what is an acceptible voltage for a 120v device? A toster would work ok. shorter or longer life? A computer, shorter or longer? would some devices have tollerance of some range. like (+)(-) 5% or something?"
Being that a toaster is juste a heated element (like a lightbulb) I would say higher voltage would shorten it's life but how much I don't know. It would make toast faster As for computers, they use switching power supplies and they would just alter thier duty cycle to compensate for voltage changes, which they are designed for anyway. So, I don't think it will make much difference there. As to acceptable variations I think UL suggests(requires?) something like 108 to 132 volts. Could be misttaken though.
> Belgium still has 220Y/127 distribution, but now with all loads connected phase-to-phase to get 220.
I wonder where you found this info. It might be the case in a couple of small villages and even very local areas of old towns (though I doubt it) but 127V is an obsolete standard and it is very rare now.
It was our friend "Belgian" who mentioned it on the forum here a few months ago. I can't remember if it was where he lives or somewhere nearby which he said is still wired this way..
Eli, if you're reading this, perhaps you could help us out!
but also Saudi Arabia, have 127/220V (60 Hz) as one of several systems.
I should have remembered that one. They seem to use British fittings for some (all?) of their work, and the MK (British) catalog lists UK-style dimmers for 127V, as well as NEMA 5-15 configuration receptacles but on a British plate.
Some small rural Communities in Germany, especially close to France still have a 133/230V system w/o neutral. Some guy recently started complaining at another board... "At my aunt's I tried installing a new light and my phase tester glowed on both wires! And then I measured 127V frome each wire to ground, what's wrong there???" Kinda liked that post... There's one important thing about working on such a system: If it's fused and the circuits aren't labeled, unscrew both phase fuses and not only one!!! Many DIYers will work "if the light's off when i unscrew the fuse it's gotta be safe!" and that's a real abd idea with such a system... you'll still have 127V to ground on one wire. According to a German expert you'd use the blue wire as a phase in such a system. If I wired in conduit I'd probably prefer black and brown as well as the other accepted phase colors (orange, purple, white, grey, though i'd avoid grey since it used to be neutral).
In the earlier part of the 20th century, parts of Adelaide, South Australia had 210 VAC 50 Hz for a while. I remember going to a museum in Adelaide where they had a 240/210 V transformer for when the voltage was changed to the standard 240 VAC
Parts of the U.K. had 210V as well prior to standardization at 240V. In fact the declared normal voltage in different parts of the country was anything from 200 to 250V in 10V increments, with corresponding 3-ph voltages.