Well, I've thought about it in the meantime, and here are my ideas for an improved version:
Fully enclosed surface boxes, e.g. Clipsal 238 (however, 2000 Series surrounds will overhang it, according to the document A0000143); alternatively, No. 449A blocks with 449AP backing plates
Clipsal 2025QC (Quick Connect) outlets? (The connections to them are meant to be more reliable than screws, not just quicker. However, if using the No. 238 boxes, I might end up using the No. 25 outlets instead to avoid the overhanging surround issue.)
Conduit to protect the cables (or would the orange circular cables comply?)
Closer intervals, say 15 or 16cm instead of the 20cm I chose originally (though rather than for safety reasons, this is because at the present spacing, my knee is prone to bumping into the left outlet.)
If there's a way of using metal screws for the inlet while keeping them double-insulated from the live parts, then I'd like to do so for the mechanical strength (compared to using the plastic screws - not that those aren't strong enough, but I like things to be rugged). (Maybe cover them with neutral-cure silicone?)
FPE here in the US was Federal Pacific Electric/Federal Pacific Electrical with FPE as their company logo. As I mentioned earlier, they had a plant here in Newark, NJ back in the day.
Their products ranged from the ‘famous’ Stab-Loc’ CBs, panels, switchgear, fuseable disconnect switches, to transformers (dry type is all I seen) and probably a lot of other items. The ‘Stab-Loc’ logo was also on their line of bolt-on CBs, as well as the ‘lug-lug’ breakers. Their demise was related to the ‘Stab-Loc’ failure to trip, and loss of UL listing. There are still many FPE panels around, they are a favorite item for the Home Inspectors (not AHJs) to write up as “dangerous”, ‘Must be replaced” etc.
Fujifilm Recalls Power Adapter Wall Plugs Sold with Digital Cameras Due to Shock Hazard
Recall Date: January 16, 2017 Recall Number: 18-079
Name of Product: Power adapter wall plugs sold with Fujifilm digital cameras
Hazard: The power adapter wall plug can crack, break or detach and remain in the wall and expose live electrical contacts, posing a shock hazard.
Remedy: Replace Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled power adapter wall plugs and contact Fujifilm for a free replacement. Consumers can continue to charge the camera using the USB cable attached to a computer.
Consumer Contact: Fujifilm toll-free at 833-613-1200 from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, email at firstname.lastname@example.org, or online at www.fujifilmusa.com and click on “Support & Contact” for more information.
Units: About 270,000 (In addition, about 24,000 were sold in Canada.)
Description: This recall involves AC-5VF power adapter wall plugs sold with Fujifilm digital camera models XP90, XP95, XP120, XP125, X-A3 and X-A10. The digital cameras were sold in a variety of colors. The recalled wall plugs are black and are combined with a power adapter and USB cord that plugs into the adapter. Model number “AC-5VF” is printed on the back of the power adapter. The serial number is printed on the bottom of the camera or under the battery compartment lid. To check your serial number, visithttp://fujifilmusa.com/support/recall/index.html
Incidents/Injuries: None reported Sold At: Mass merchandisers, electronics and membership club stores nationwide and online at Amazon.com and other websites. The XP90 and XP95 were sold from June 2016 through January 2018, the XP120 and XP125 were sold from January 2017 through January 2018, the X-A3 was sold from October 2016 through January 2018, and the X-A10 was sold from February 2017 through January 2018. The digital cameras were sold for between $160 and $600 with the power adaptor wall plugs. Importer(s): FUJIFILM North America Corporation, of Valhalla, N.Y.
Distributor(s): FUJIFILM North America Corporation, of Valhalla, N.Y.
Haven't heard back from the manufacturer yet but I was able to get more detailed information from the supplier. The specifications show that for the model I am supplying power to #10 AWG is the minimum recommended conductor size. So, no surprises.
It seems that the proliferation of import items are avoiding any real certifications. There are a lot of items similar to the one stated in this thread on websites like Amazon & EBay. It looks like a great way to sell.
Diazed fuses often have a flat strip of silver/copper in them with holes at certain locations to create a weak point set for the current the fuse supposed to operate at. The screw in bottle type fuse is often filled with fine quartz sand to ensure quenching of the arc. Those fuses can get very hot when running at full load and good clean and tight connections are a must. The DIN wedge type fuses are also build in a similar way and show the breaking capacity in kA's. Good HRC fuses are 80 or 120 kA rated.
Hey guys, Been my first new thread in ages. I hope the festive season was kind to you all and you had a good break from work. Another year has passed, hopefully 2018 goes well for you all. Have a good one!.
I'd be interested to know who the ESA are in Canada....~S~
"The Electrical Safety Authority (ESA) is an administrative authority mandated by the Government of Ontario to enhance public electrical safety in the province. We are both a safety regulator and advocate."
That just feels like the kind of stunt a totally incompetent DIYer with much more self-confidence than skills and knowledge would pull! I once had the dubious pleasure of viewing an 1840s flat in Vienna that was wired in a somewhat similar fashion, perhaps by the poor sods who rented it without any sort of heat (didn't see any evidence of active chimneys, definitely no central heating whatsoever). We're talking 80 sq. m. (so something over 800 sq. ft.) and the incoming mains was 1.5 mm2, no earth! If there was any earthed wiring at all (I seem to remember there was, although the place had been partly gutted with barely any sockets and switches remaining) it had been connected to the water pipes - legal up until 2001 but this story took place in 2014 I think. The supply had been disconnected and the Neozed main fuse showed no trace of key rings but from the scorch marks the supply wires left above the surface-mounted consumer unit I'd suspect at least 25 A. The loo was wired with loose 0.75 mm2 flex and pattress boxes dangling on the flex, everything else was at least inside the walls.
On top of that the whole place was damp, the floor boards rotted and all the windows looked right onto the pavement - ground floor, facing north too, so it was glum. Needless to say the friend who was originally interested didn't take it. I strongly suspect before trying to sell it off at a huge profit a greedy landlord rented the place to poor immigrants with little knowledge of Austrian laws at a vastly inflated rate (there's a pretty tight limit on rents for places like this, while you can for example legally rent out living space without any plumbing, the maximum rent is close to non-existent).
At least in Austria and Germany "Does anyone recognise these switches and can tell me where to get spares?" is a fairly common question. Designs rarely last more than say 20 years, sometimes less, and replacement covers usually need to match quite exactly to fit even physically, let alone visually. Occasionally manufacturers re-design even the switch mechanisms enough to make them impossible to replace.
Actually it's more like the other way round - when a 1987 Siemens switch shorted out (well to be more precise the wiring between the switch and fixture shorted to earth and the switch contacts welded themselves shut) and burnt at my parents' office I was seriously surprised I could fit the old covers to a new switch! I'd have hated to replace an entire vertical bank of 8 individual switches!
We have several mission critical facilities that use an ungrounded delta system. In the event of a ground fault the system stays energized until it can be corrected. The only time that the system goes down is when there is a second ground fault before the first one gets cleared.
An ungrounded delta is kinda capacitively coupled to the Earth, so a ground detector device is used. There are 3 lights wired from phase to a ground rod and all glow continuously at the same brightness. If one of the phases has a ground fault that light will go out and the other 2 get much brighter.
That tells you which phase the ground fault is on...but finding where it is becomes very challenging. One of our facilities has had a ground fault on one of the phases for several years...and the maintenance folks are still trying to chase it down. I think there may be a ground in 2 places on the same phase; which is like trying to find the 2 bad bulbs in an old string of Christmas lights.