There are various experts' and parts of the listing standards that want to obstruct the use of power strips. They're not only tilting at windmills, they're also preventing QUALITY strips from being made. They've set their doctrine against the customers' wishes.
I know, right?
I've briefly seen (on YouTube) those transparently insincere PSAs against plugging heaters into (your) power strips. They might appear convincing enough to the layperson, but I ain't having them; I do still have a few older Australian power-boards (as we call them) with proper contacts, and they can sustain the full 10A through any one socket while keeping their cool.
Of course, the units available at modern "discount" stores are total junk (although to be fair, most electrical products sold there are); so given my past incident, I wouldn't even trust those with an office PC (much less any substantial load). Even they can survive full load initially, though; 10A is no big deal until the contacts are well and truly knackered, and that's exactly what happens in these cheaper power-boards (reportedly much like your "residential grade" wall outlets, which thankfully aren't a thing in Australia).
Indeed, it's my experience that products in general are way more reliable in the absence of such theoretically baseless cop-outs as have been mentioned, and this applies to high-tech products (e.g. hard disk drives) just as it does to low-tech items...
You pretty much have to get an inspector's license. Go to the DBPR site for what they want to see these days (I got mine 25 years ago). If you are not very familiar with finding your way around the NEC, the test may be tough but if you get comfortable in there it is a breeze. That will go a long way toward getting hired although there are ways to get a provisional license if you are working for a municipality. I suspect the best opportunities these days may be with new towns starting their own building departments but you can call around and see how the county and the big cities are fixed. Building is really picking up down in my neck of the woods (Lee County) and I know they have an inspector retiring as we speak.
May be a silly idea, but are both circuits on RCD? I suffered a similar problem quite a lot of years ago and gave up in frustration trying to solve it, eventually putting it down to my audio system being "home brewed". In my case I couldn't attribute the source to one item. Eventually I updated my panel to an RCD one, incidentally discovering a neutral earth short half way round my ring main. Doh! It was a neutral wire knicked by the faceplate screw. Once fixed, the audio system problem disappeared. I believe that the currents circulating between the short and power source behaved like an hearing aid loop system, radiating at low frequency around the house and picked up by the stereo.
I have them sorted red and yellow so I get a few bucks for 5 minutes work. I an certainly not making that anywhere else OTOH if I bought these at Home Depot it is probably more like $15-20 and now I have a lifetime supply for the little bit of stuff I do these days.
One of the great benefits of an ungrounded delta is its ability to remain energized with a fault on any single line. Unfortunately one of the great difficulties with an ungrounded delta is finding that fault. A fault at any point in the system shows up exactly the same as another.
The only way that I have ever used successfully is to disconnect part of the system and see if the fault clears. If not, reconnect that part and start again until you find what device clears the fault when it opens. Now you know that the system is clear upstream of that point. Now repeat that process further downstream of the source. Keep repeating until you find the fault...it can take a while. If you have more than 1 fault on the system...it can be a very long time since you only know that the phase is faulted or cleared; you'll never know if there is a single point of fault or more than one. That's what doomed the ungrounded delta IMHO; it's very difficult to troubleshoot as the electrical system starts to grow.
I had a fault in a relatively simple system with 10 loads that was scheduled to be replaced as part of an upcoming renovation. After trying to find the problem over the course of a week I finally gave up and replaced it in kind using EMT knowing that the whole thing would be in the dumpster in a few months. In that particular case I not only got the process back online I saved a lot of troubleshooting time/expense. The tough part was convincing the powers-that-be to spend some money on a temporary solution.
The best suggestion I could give is to seek info from an NRTL (UL, etc). I assume you are refering to tap devices similar to Kuppl-Tap, that allow a tap without removal of insulation from the conductors.
As to the suggested "expert" and link posted above, if you follow the link it takes you to a page of what appears to be primarily an HVAC contractor that also does electrical. Looking thru the webpage, I see no HVAC, or Electrical License numbers, which are required by State regs, but may be an oversite by this company.
As the OP in this thread is in Tunisia, he may look into an NRTL that is approved for that country, or an NRTL in Europe/Asia.
Yeah, there's only so much we can do... (Though I would like if the standards considered fixed wiring and flexible cords in conjunction, rather than separately.)
I wish product engineers would include better inrush limiting, too. (Generally, they seem to have been concerned mostly just with protecting the product itself from damage.) Anyway, if we want to discuss that further I'd suggest going to another thread...
good day my esteem electrical engineers, Please do anyone here has an idea of how I can get life cycle assessment for a substation? whats the different between an injection substation and a distribution substation? email@example.com.
Greg, when I say the rules are dangerous, you say the rules prevent solving the problem. They didn't prevent solving the problem, here, when the rule was that Neutral and Ground were to be connected together in buildings housing livestock.
Our rules were changed because they were dangerous. Now, we are to go back to dangerous because we don't want current on a ground wire.
You have current on your ground wire. What about the rule?
We have a special thing going on. We went back to connecting the ground to the nearest water line to the panel and we prevented current on the ground wire by renaming it as a "bonding conductor". I'm appalled, but rules are rules.
I talked to the county inspector and it only made things more confusing. He says "service equipment" (meters and disconnects) are allowed at grade. OK that makes sense. In the garage, no equipment can be below grade including switches for the lights. They will have to use battery operated remote switches. I even understand that somewhat. Then it gets weird. In the elevator lobby/stair well at grade he said you use normal rules. (switches and receptacles placed by 210).
I did a little looking myself and the guiding rules seem to be article 422 of the ICC residential building code (adopted by Florida as the FBC). That even gets weirder. First they say
Electrical systems...shall be located at or above the elevation required <FEMA>
then in exceptions they say
Exception: Locating electrical systems, equipment and components; heating, ventilating, air conditioning; plumbing appliances and plumbing fixtures; duct systems; and other service equipment is permitted below the elevation required in Section R322.2 or R322.3 provided that they are designed and installed to prevent water from entering or accumulating within the components and to resist hydrostatic and hydrodynamic loads and stresses, including the effects of buoyancy, during the occurrence of flooding to the design flood elevation in accordance with ASCE 24. Electrical wiring systems are permitted to be located below the required elevation provided that they conform to the provisions of the electrical part of this code for wet locations. R322.1.7Protection of water supply and sanitary sewage systems.
They start out describing NEMA 6 equipment and then end by making it sound like anything 3R will work. I can see why people are just making up the rules as they go along. Our fear now is we know the county inspector is going to retire at the end of next month and I doubt they will be at final by then. The open question is who will do the final and does he have the same interpretation of the rules. Add to that the city of Ft Myers Beach is taking over the process and we may be dealing with a whole different building department. Ah the joys of beach building
Although identified as a "student" in my profile, I have yet to actually pursue a 'formal' education at much of anything; in general, I self-teach, and (probably like many here) prefer 'hands-on' experience to theory alone. (School was a disaster for me, BTW.) Still, should I need to take a course in something, I'm willing enough to do so...
I have yet to decide what kind of career I should take; household electrics would be way too easy (and I'd no doubt struggle to be "economical" whilst upholding a high standard of workmanship, anyway). Engineering and/or consultancy look more appealing; whatever job I go for, I'm quite sure it has to be beyond the 'average' person's means...
And I'm surely not alone in finding it somewhat insulting, how so many people keep getting the most basic things wrong. To an extent, I feel sorry for them; I can't help but wonder why many keep penny-pinching on important (if "boring") stuff, yet burn crazy sums of money on frivolities (e.g. fashion, weddings) -- or just gamble it away at casinos, pokies, or wherever...
What I want to happen in engineering (and which I try to do in devices I build myself) is to combine good-old pride in workmanship, with the knowledge and experience acquired since; to make the most reliable products feasible. I just hope we can overcome the wrath of consumerism, and put a stop to planned obsolescence...
I think it's become increasingly clear, too, that we just can't rely solely on the designated 'safety agencies' to adequately block hazardous products from the market; they just don't have anywhere near enough resources to do their job alone (and likely never will). With the advent of the WWW, however, we get to publish our own findings; where official product recalls fall short, we shall issue our own. Here are my recalls to date, at Hardware Insights (where I'm a forum moderator, and work on the main site during better times).
This is not to abolish the official safety agencies; they exist to serve a purpose (namely, protecting those who can't examine products themselves). If anything, I'd hope that we could support them (no doubt bureaucracy may get in the way, though)...