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I would like to address your original post.
Q1:
A random poll of certified home inspectors at a state association-sponsored electrical seminar revealed that many of us find "dueling" GFCIs on the same circuit.
Could you define how the GFCI Receptacles are connected on this Circuit?
A:
If they are all are simply Pig-Tailed from the Circuit, with the only connections being made to the "LINE" Terminals, then there should not be any trip issues.
This is NEC Compliant, and is a way to connect GFCI receptacles across a MWBC (Multi Wire Branch Circuit).
PRO: This type of connection allows for a "Selective Coordination" of device tripping - meaning the GFCI Receptacle which was connected to the leakage (Ground Fault) is the only one that trips. All others stay latched.
CON: This type of connection is the most expensive, as each Outlet requires a GFCI Receptacle.
B:
If there is a "First GFCI Receptacle" (Homerun to this Outlet), where the incoming Branch Circuit is connected to the "LINE" Terminals, and the rest of the Circuit is connected through the GFCI's "LOAD" Terminals, any Ground fault down stream + at the "First" device will trip that "First" GFCI - even the "TEST Button" on downstream GFCI Receptacles - provided the Downstream GFCI Receptacles are wired properly.
Connecting Multiple GFCIs through the "LOAD" Terminals of another GFCI is NEC Compliant, and will work.
It is just an expensive way of doing things - very similar to example "A" above, only the devices are wired through one or more GFCIs, so there is no benefit of "Selective Coordination" in this example.
(BTW "Selective Coordination" is a term which refers to Overcurrent Protection Devices - such as Circuit Breakers and Fuses; but the basis of Selective -vs- Non-Selective Coordination applies here.)
Q2:
For example, if there's a GFCI receptacle in the kitchen, and another in the garage, the kitchen GFCI won't trip and/or reset as expected.
This may be due to several factors:
1: The GFCI in the Garage is not protecting the GFCI in the Kitchen (devices only connected to "LINE" side Terminations),
2: The Garage GFCI is on a different Circuit from the Kitchen Circuit(s),
3: There is a MWBC feeding the Kitchen, and the GFCIs are connected through "LOAD" Terminals,
4: The Circuit between the Garage Receptacle and the Kitchen Receptacle undergoing the Test has an Open Conductor in the Branch Circuitry (or other wiring errors),
5: One of the GFCIs is malfunctioning,
6: The GFCI in the Kitchen does not have 120VAC at it - likely to occur if the "Upstream GFCI" has tripped, and this "Downstream GFCI" is connected to it via the Upstream Device's "LOAD" Terminals.
If there is no active Circuit available at the GFCI Receptacle, the "TEST" Button does not function, and if the "RESET" Button has already perfored a reset (Re-latch), that Button will not do anything.
This scenario would require a voltage Test at the Kitchen Device, to confirm the Circuit is active.
If 120VAC is read between the two Vertical Terminals of the Receptacle, and the "TEST" Button is not functioning, the device may be defective.
There is more to this, so let me know what the parameters are.
Q3:
We're guessing that the GFCIs are confusing each other and the downstream receptacle should be replaced. So the kitchen would get a standard receptacle (labeled that it's GFCI protected) and the garage GFCI would remain.
That would be one way to do it, which would be NEC Compliant.
Another way is to wire the GFCI Receptacle at the Garage so it only connects through the "LINE" Terminals - the Device "Taps Off " the Branch Circuit; then the Branch Circuit continues "As-Is" to the Kitchen Outlet, where another GFCI Receptacle would be installed + connected through the "LINE" Terminals only.
If there are additional Kitchen receptacles "Downstream":
The "First Outlet" at the Kitchen would have a GFCI Receptacle, with the remaining Kitchen Outlets being Standard Receptacles - which are connected through the "LOAD" Terminals of the GFCI at the Kitchen.
Q4:
Also, when there's a GFCI breaker in the service panel, shouldn't the receptacles controlled by that breaker also be standard, NOT GFCI receptacles to avoid "duels" as well?
They MAY be Standard Receptacles, or if someone wants to do so, they MAY also be GFCI Receptacle Devices.
Both methods are NEC Compliant.
There is a "DESIGN ISSUE" with GFCI Receptacles fed from a GFCI Breaker, which results in "Non-Selective Coordination" when one GFCI Receptacle undergoes a TEST; both the GFCI Receptacle AND the GFCI Breaker may trip.
Other than that minor design issue, this would likely be the most effective way to provide Ground Fault Protection to Personnel.
Q5:
Lastly, we're not talking about GFCIs for bathrooms, which are clearly discussed in code books. So any info or NEC code citations you share would be most appreciated.
I did not mention this before, as I am not too sure about the "Kitchen Receptacle" being used as an example here.
If the Kitchen Receptacle is one of the "Small Appliance Branch Circuits", as defined in NEC Article 210.11(C), connecting the Garage Receptacle to this would not be Compliant.
210.52(b)(2) specifies these Branch Circuits are not to have any other outlets, which eliminates the Garage Outlet.
The only exceptions are for an Electric Clock in any of the Rooms covered in 210.52, or a receptacle for Gas Ignitors + Lighting of Cooking Equipment.
The Rooms which the "Two Or More Small-Applinace Branch Circuits" include are:
* Kitchen,
* Pantry,
* Breakfast Room,
* Dining Room,
* Similar Areas (areas related to Kitchen activities).
Q6:
I'll relay your explanations on our professional bulletin board so we can all be educated about this issue.
Great!
Tell them to feel free in discussing these items here.
Q7:
Thanks so much & I'll check back with you asap.
Looking forward to your replies!
Hope these replies are useful.
Scott
