ECN Forum Forums Code Related Discussion NEC & other Code issues Best wiring method for Horse Barn

hi,
what is the best wiring method for a horse barn? weatherproof everything?

how about the overhead service drop from the main load center on the pole to the barn? doesnt this have to be a quadraplex cable? (insulated neutral)..

what about grounding at the pole with no water line available? two ground rods? connected together or seperately?

thanks

frodo

Hi frodo

yes
yes
not sure what U mean there..?

obviously, you've gone thru 547..

As a horse dad add..crib-proof & tantrum-proof, double it for a pony.

hi,
i installed a 200A Loadcenter on a pole. from the loadcenter off a 40A double pole using #4 quadraplex. they go through a 1 1/4 emt out a weather head over to a barn into a 125 loadcenter with a 40A main. i am bringing a quadraplex over for two reasons; 1) it brings my ground over from the pole. 2) i get an insulated neutral. i drove a single ground rod at the barn.

what do I need at the service for grounding? there is no water line. i figured i would drive two ground rods.

will this satisfy the code?

if i use two ground rods 6 feet apart, do the rods have to be tied together or have a seperate run of #6 from each rod?

i am planning on using emt and fs boxes to install switches and lighting in the barn. this is the best method i can think of.

thanks for all the input..

frodo

See Article 547 in the NEC.

[This message has been edited by Joe Tedesco (edited 02-04-2002).]

hi,
thanks for all the input, its good to have a plce to go to for friendly discussions and advice.

-regards

frodo

May I suggest PVC FS boxes and PVC rigid pipe (sched 80 where needed) rather than ferrous metal?

Corrosive environment, No?

Frodo Wrote:
"i installed a 200A Loadcenter on a pole. from the loadcenter off a 40A double pole using #4 quadraplex. they go through a 1 1/4 emt out a weather head over to a barn into a 125 loadcenter with a 40A main. i am bringing a quadraplex over for two reasons; 1) it brings my ground over from the pole. 2) i get an insulated neutral. i drove a single ground rod at the barn.

what do I need at the service for grounding? there is no water line. i figured i would drive two ground rods.

will this satisfy the code?

if i use two ground rods 6 feet apart, do the rods have to be tied together or have a seperate run of #6 from each rod?

i am planning on using emt and fs boxes to install switches and lighting in the barn. this is the best method i can think of.

thanks for all the input.."

Frodo
Which edition of the NEC are you working with in your area? That effects the answers a lot. For 1996 you are fine so far, for 1999 you need two rods at each building. In either case you can run one Grounding Electrode Conductor (GEC) to the first ground rod through the acorn clamp and on to the acorn clamp of the second ground rod. If you are using solid state controlled equipment in any of these buildings then you may want to get a lot more fussy about the grounding then the code requires. If you have a drilled water well within reach of any of these buildings consider running a GEC to it.
--
Tom

hi,
my area recognizes the 1999 code. on a seperate building, detached garage etc., where no ground conductor has been run then two ground rods may be required but where a egc is run with the conductors do you still need two ground rods?

i always run a ground conductor from the service to the building or detached garage to keep from having to drive two rods.

i have passed a few inspections with only one ground rod at the detached garage or building as long as i have the ground run with the feeder.

thanks

frodo

hi,
pvc is a consideration. is it cost effective vs emt?

-regards

frodo

I show 1/2" EMT @ $0.16 per foot and 1/2" PVC at $0.18, plus the fittings are a little more expensive and the PVC conduit requires 3.3 times as many straps, but in the long run, it will hold up to the test of time. EMT will eventually rust out in an agricutural environment.

Care must be taken to provide for temperature expansion and contraction of the PVC pipe, using "frosties" or other expansion type joints.