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FUSES #144565
01/03/06 05:04 AM
01/03/06 05:04 AM
R
RODALCO  Offline OP
Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 856
Titirangi, Akld, New Zealand
Why don't we seem to have a standard colour coding for standard type fuses? [Linked Image]

This applies especially for New Zealand but I have no doubt that other countries have similar issues.

I find it quite often a pain when for example HRC fuses ( 2 to 40 Amps ) all have the same colours printed or labelled on them.
The same applies to the bigger sizes too and also the actual AMPERAGE is written on it too small while all the other info is usually printed on too big. [Linked Image]

and to say I have excellent eyesight. [Linked Image]

The older NZI plug in MCB's at least are colour coded.
White 6 amps
Grey 10 amps
Blue 15 amps
Yellow 20 amps
Black 27 amps
Red 30 / 32 amps [Linked Image]

I personally find colour coding a lot more effective than applying all the same colour.

The older European diazed weber style fuses had a similar colour coding and an indicator which popped out behind a little glass window if a fuse had failed.
DII style: Green 6A, Red 10A, Grey 16A, Blue 20A, Yellow 25A.
DIII style: Black 35A, White 50A, orangegold 63A. etc.
[Linked Image] [Linked Image]
These were the values I most dealt with while above 63 A mostly DIN style fuses were used.
See what your opinions are.

Cheers

Ray.


The product of rotation, excitation and flux produces electricty.
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Re: FUSES #144566
01/03/06 07:22 AM
01/03/06 07:22 AM
P
pauluk  Offline
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,520
Norfolk, England
Quote
The older NZI plug in MCB's at least are colour coded.

White 6 amps
Grey 10 amps
Blue 15 amps
Yellow 20 amps
Black 27 amps
Red 30 / 32 amps


That's the same color code as used here, with the exception of 27A, which I've never seen before. Is that a peculiarly Aus/NZ rating? [Linked Image]

In fact white 5A, blue 15A, yellow 20A, and red 30A goes back to the old BS1361 cartridge fuses as well.

Some systems have changed over time though. Our BS1362 fuses (the 1-inch long types used in BS1363 13-amp plugs) are such an example. Today, the 3A fuse is color-coded red, but in the original system 3A was blue.




[This message has been edited by pauluk (edited 01-03-2006).]

Re: FUSES #144567
01/03/06 08:08 AM
01/03/06 08:08 AM
Trumpy  Offline

Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,250
SI,New Zealand
Paul,
Ray is correct about the 27A MCB's.
They were a predecessor of the now common 25A protection.
And yes the 25A MCB has the black marking on it too. [Linked Image]
Ray with the majority of the HRC fuselinks I've seen here, the amperage is stamped on the top of the tinned copper landing, big or small.

Re: FUSES #144568
01/03/06 11:24 PM
01/03/06 11:24 PM
R
RODALCO  Offline OP
Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 856
Titirangi, Akld, New Zealand
Quote
That's the same color code as used here, with the exception of 27A, which I've never seen before. Is that a peculiarly Aus/NZ rating?


Pauluk: this 27 Amps MCB was used for the 4mm² or imperial equivalent wiring for short runs to ranges. ( now these days superseaded with 6 mm² and 30A or 32A MCB's).

4mm² is now protected with a 25 Amps MCB.

Trumpy: That is great depending on which brand of fuses the beancounters buy. Here in Auckland we have MEM for 32 A or less which have unfortunately small numbers and same colour coded labels.
I know what you mean with the current stampings which you see on NZI and GEC type fuses.
The Lawson fuses are very well marked with large numbers on the fusebody.

The worst is always when you have some fuses which have been in the truck for a while and the markings have worn off. Then you can't beat the stamped ampere values.

4mm² is now protected with 25 A MCB.


The product of rotation, excitation and flux produces electricty.
Re: FUSES #144569
01/04/06 03:36 AM
01/04/06 03:36 AM
B
briselec  Offline
Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 141
Brisbane, Australia
I like the idea of colour coded fuses but I don't like Clipsal's colour coded toggles on their MCBs. I think it's better having only the main switch a different colour, making it easily identifiable. Of course that doesn't make it obvious that you also need to turn off the hot water MCB to kill everything. I've always thought there should be a rule requiring a double pole main switch on domestic boards to cover both tariffs.

Re: FUSES #144570
01/04/06 04:21 AM
01/04/06 04:21 AM
Trumpy  Offline

Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,250
SI,New Zealand
briselec,
Darned good points mate!. [Linked Image]
Quote
I think it's better having only the main switch a different colour, making it easily identifiable.

Yeah I agree, I've always gone along with the idea that the Main Switch on or in a switch-board should have a red toggle on it and no other colour.
All other MCB toggles should be one single contrasting colour.
Quote
I've always thought there should be a rule requiring a double pole main switch on domestic boards to cover both tariffs.

Over here until the advent of DIN Rail switchboards, the surface-mounted main switch was always a 2-pole type that de-energised the Hot water circuit as well as the main phase, when the main switch was opened.
Having said that I've never seen a seperate isolator in a DIN Rail board for the HWS, just it's MCB.

{Message edited for spelling} [Linked Image]


[This message has been edited by Trumpy (edited 01-04-2006).]

Re: FUSES #144571
01/04/06 06:04 AM
01/04/06 06:04 AM
P
pauluk  Offline
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,520
Norfolk, England
The Wylex plug-in breakers here (which can be used to replace rewireable or cartridge fuses on the older "Standard" range of Wylex panels) use color-coded handles (colors as listed above, plus green for 40A):

[Linked Image]

Most others are just plain black handles for all ratings though.

Quote
I've always gone along with the idea that the Main Switch on or in a switch-board should have a red toggle on it and no other colour.


You'd like the Wylex NH, GE panels, and a few others current here then. This is the NH:

[Linked Image]

Re: FUSES #144572
01/04/06 02:11 PM
01/04/06 02:11 PM
R
RODALCO  Offline OP
Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 856
Titirangi, Akld, New Zealand
I like that? Well marked and colour coded MCB's.
Wish that all manufacturers stuck to that system.
And a main / masterswitch should be red and marked so it is easily recognisable for anyone who has to shut of power with no doubts.


The product of rotation, excitation and flux produces electricty.
Re: FUSES #144573
01/04/06 07:53 PM
01/04/06 07:53 PM
T
Texas_Ranger  Offline
Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,433
Vienna, Austria
There's a new twist... though i've never seen them for real my text book lists 13A DII links with a black marker... nobody else ever seems to have heard of them, yet they are listed in the book.

You called them Diazed Weber fuses, any idea where that name comes from? I've heard any other name than Diazed before!

Re: FUSES #144574
01/05/06 02:20 PM
01/05/06 02:20 PM
C
classicsat  Offline
Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 456
For a while, Schneider Electric has been manufacturing the FPE Stab-Lock breakers with colour coded handles.

You can see the red ones at: https://www.electrical-contractor.net/ubb/Forum5/HTML/001123.html

The black ones were likely made before the coloring scheme.

The colouring scheme matches the colours typical of Edison plug fuses;
Blue=15A
Red=20A
Green=30A
Grey=40A
Above that black handles are used.

AFAIK, the prograssion of the NC stab-loc breakers in Canada:
1970s: Blabc body, square black toggle.
Sometime in the late 70s they had the orange tipped toggles for a while.

In the late 80s, they came out with the white bodies. In the mid 90s, they began colour coding the handles on 40A and less breakers. Late 90s, they switched from the "squared" toggle to a flatter toggle, retaining color coding.

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