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#121466 01/13/06 11:48 PM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 349
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If I blow this picture up a little bit, the receptacle looks discolored but not too much right near the screw(s), more so on the face of the receptacle. Might just be 30 years of grime.

Pauluk - my guess on the grounds up on the receptacle on the right is maybe the molded plug for the window AC cord is made with the ground up when it hangs down. Maybe? I've seen similar ones but I don't know why they make 'em that way.

Radar


There are 10 types of people. Those who know binary, and those who don't.
#121467 01/14/06 11:21 AM
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Could be that I guess. Years ago (before I'd ever been to America) I had a "bargain bundle" of cords and such like from a mail-order place, and along with the dozens of light-duty types I wanted for my 120V projects there were also a few heavy SO-type cords. I remember finding some with the 5-15 plugs molded ground up and some ground down.


[This message has been edited by pauluk (edited 01-14-2006).]

#121468 01/14/06 02:07 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
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Installing the receptacle above the electric baseboard heater is not directly addressed in the NEC, there is an FPN. Also 110.3(B) is where we want to direct our attention.

I went online and downloaded several electric baseboard manufacturer's installation instructions. The language used is " do not install the baseboard heater below receptacles. (paraphrased)


I did find one manufacturer that had no reference in their instructions in relation to location as to receptacles.


Pierre Belarge
#121469 01/18/06 05:06 AM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 354
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No matter what the regulations say, common sense says that those receptacles shouldn't be there.

Whoever installed the heater should have removed the receptacles and vice versa.

Looks like it would be easy to move those receptacles higher up on the wall and keep them away from the heat.

#121470 01/18/06 02:50 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 806
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Quote
Looks like it would be easy to move those receptacles higher up on the wall and keep them away from the heat.

Are you joking, mate? That's a concrete block wall! [Linked Image]

If you think that's easy, what would you find difficult? [Linked Image] [Linked Image]

Academic anyway, reno says the buildings' due to come down.


Stupid should be painful.
#121471 01/20/06 04:31 AM
Joined: Dec 2004
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Woops ! I meant it would be easy if the wall wasn't filled with concrete. Which it probably is.

In which case it means you just need to do a heat-proof junction and then cut a chase in the block wall up to the new Socket location. Then either cut and chisel out a wall box or mount an ugly surface socket.
Then plaster up the chase. See, easy huh ? Half hour job at most ! [Linked Image]

#121472 01/20/06 07:01 AM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 812
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Quote
In which case it means you just need to do a heat-proof junction and then cut a chase in the block wall up to the new Socket location. Then either cut and chisel out a wall box or mount an ugly surface socket.
Then plaster up the chase. See, easy huh ? Half hour job at most!

Dynamite...

Ian A.


Is there anyone on board who knows how to fly a plane?
#121473 01/20/06 04:29 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 806
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kiwi, I'd love to have you on my next cinema install!! [Linked Image]

ROFL!


Stupid should be painful.
#121474 01/20/06 04:58 PM
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Any "scraping" connection creates some heat at the surface area from the plug and socket contacts.

Additional rising heat from a heater below, will cause the heat to dissipate more slowly from the connection and will add to the deteriation process of the plug and socket and possible premature faillure.

Also the heat on the lead of a plugged in appliance will soften it, add to the resistance of the lead, hence less voltage for the appliance.

There is an other risk of the lead touching the actual heater and early insulation faillure or flashover to the 'hopefully' earthed heater.


The product of rotation, excitation and flux produces electricty.
#121475 01/20/06 05:44 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,803
Member
I think it was LK, [Les], who mentioned, in reply to one of my first posts to ECN, an assumed upper limit of 60C at recepticles? This raises an important issue, irrespective of the impending demise of this building, because most central heating systems, [with the exception of underfloor], operate at higher than 60C.
Are there any rules that an electrician can follow as to how near hot pipes/ ducting/ radiators/ ancilliary kit the wiring can be without derating?

Alan

PS 3xelectricman; Not dynamite any more, now its 'PBX' ( Plastic Bonded Explosive) - It's more environmentally friendly apparently- the mind boggles!!!]
PPS; I changed your name, after some of the best posts of the last few weeks, I think you deserve it!


Wood work but can't!
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