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Connecting Service drop #6052 12/20/01 10:36 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 50
J
Joe Carpenter Offline OP
Member
What is the preferred method for connecting a triplex overhead feeder to a SE cable at a service entrance head? This is for a 100 amp single phase 120/240 volt subpanel at another building.I know crimp on connectors are often used but if I don't have access to a crimping tool, Can another method be used such as split bolts?
This is somewhat unfamiliar territory for me. I don't know if I even used the proper terminology. My work normally consists of indoor industrial wiring.
I appreciate your help.

Work Gear for Electricians and the Trades
Re: Connecting Service drop #6053 12/20/01 11:03 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 37
A
aphares Offline
Member
Split bolt connectors could very well be your next best choice. They are common here.
The only thing to watch for is the UL rating. Split bolt connectors (all-purpose type) are only UL rated for copper and copperweld wires only. but they are advertised for any combination of two dissimilar metals. Most vendors don't know this. One to look for will be dual-rated APS series (NSI), made from tin-plated aluminum. UL (486B) listed for aluminum and copper condutor combinations. The other thing to look out for is a good sealer to avoid moisture, and a very good connection.

Re: Connecting Service drop #6054 12/21/01 06:09 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 50
J
Joe Carpenter Offline OP
Member
That was my next question. What is the best method of sealing such a connection? And I am assuming that even with a connector that is approved for 2 dissimilar metals, I should still use the anti-oxidizing compound on the connection.

Re: Connecting Service drop #6055 12/21/01 06:33 AM
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,389
S
sparky Offline
Member
Joe,
my personal method is to make the connection using no-lox, seal it with scotchcoat, apply a thin layer of dux seal, then wrap with splicing tape. The theory being to seal it from atmosphere.

Re: Connecting Service drop #6056 12/21/01 08:18 AM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,283
electure Offline
Member
You might check with your supplier. Many wholesalers have a Hypress crimper that they'll rent/loan to you.
I make the split bolt connections much as Sparky stated.
Make connection with NoAlox (using connectors properly rated with separators for the Cu/Al connection). Wrap the connection with #130 linerless rubber tape. Then put on Scochkote, and finally tape with regular elect tape. It keeps the gook off of the split bolt if you want to access it later.
If there is a possibility of abrasion, use varnished Cambric tape over the Scotchkote, and under the elect tape.

Re: Connecting Service drop #6057 12/23/01 01:26 PM
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 507
G
golf junkie Offline
Member
I think that I could make a full time living repairing loose split bolt connections on overhead wiring.

If there is anyway possible....use crimps. The combination of wind and aluminum wiring is just the recipe for a loose connection some years in the future.

GJ

Re: Connecting Service drop #6058 12/25/01 12:39 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 60
S
silverbk Offline
Member
Here in NY The power companies won't allow split bolts anymore. I have repaired many, in years past. As soon as a customer says half my house is out that's where I look.

We now have to use either Hypress type connectors, most supply houses will rent you a mechanical crimper.

Or paralell groove connectors. Con Edison is only allowing a specific type of connector made by Richards, they come pre noaloxed and come with a plastic snap on cover.

Re: Connecting Service drop #6059 12/28/01 06:03 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 437
The Watt Doctor Offline
Member
Copper/Aluminum split bolt (for copper to aluminum connections), scotch 33 wrapped on backwards (sticky side out), cambric, linerless rubber (or scotch pad), scotch 33 again (sticky side down this time), and a layer of friction tape is my formula for noncrimp connections.
I use the same for gutters when I have to use split bolts. The backwards tape is used to make it easy on someone if they ever have to break those connections.
HMEL#688


The Watt Doctor
Altura Cogen
Channelview, TX
Re: Connecting Service drop #6060 12/29/01 11:46 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 457
J
Jim M Offline
Member
Although the utility here cuts i their own drops with crimps, I have found the pre-insulated taps from NSI or Polaris to be a real time and labor saver on service upgrades when making a temporary connection to provide power until the inspection and final cutover. Be sure to get them back as they are almost $30 each for a 4/0 size.

Re: Connecting Service drop #6061 12/31/01 02:01 AM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 218
S
spkjpr Offline
Member
Hey Watt Dr glad to see someone else tapes a splice with 33 before using splice tape. It does make it easier to undo later. I work on several pump motors we have to replace on a semi- regular basis that have the connections covered in splice tape and one guy does not use 33 before the splice tape, sure hate following him. Usually takes a day for the bleeding to stop after cutting the splice tape off.

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