What is the preferred method for connecting a triplex overhead feeder to a SE cable at a service entrance head? This is for a 100 amp single phase 120/240 volt subpanel at another building.I know crimp on connectors are often used but if I don't have access to a crimping tool, Can another method be used such as split bolts?
This is somewhat unfamiliar territory for me. I don't know if I even used the proper terminology. My work normally consists of indoor industrial wiring.
I appreciate your help.

Split bolt connectors could very well be your next best choice. They are common here.
The only thing to watch for is the UL rating. Split bolt connectors (all-purpose type) are only UL rated for copper and copperweld wires only. but they are advertised for any combination of two dissimilar metals. Most vendors don't know this. One to look for will be dual-rated APS series (NSI), made from tin-plated aluminum. UL (486B) listed for aluminum and copper condutor combinations. The other thing to look out for is a good sealer to avoid moisture, and a very good connection.

That was my next question. What is the best method of sealing such a connection? And I am assuming that even with a connector that is approved for 2 dissimilar metals, I should still use the anti-oxidizing compound on the connection.

Joe,
my personal method is to make the connection using no-lox, seal it with scotchcoat, apply a thin layer of dux seal, then wrap with splicing tape. The theory being to seal it from atmosphere.

You might check with your supplier. Many wholesalers have a Hypress crimper that they'll rent/loan to you.
I make the split bolt connections much as Sparky stated.
Make connection with NoAlox (using connectors properly rated with separators for the Cu/Al connection). Wrap the connection with #130 linerless rubber tape. Then put on Scochkote, and finally tape with regular elect tape. It keeps the gook off of the split bolt if you want to access it later.
If there is a possibility of abrasion, use varnished Cambric tape over the Scotchkote, and under the elect tape.

I think that I could make a full time living repairing loose split bolt connections on overhead wiring.

If there is anyway possible....use crimps. The combination of wind and aluminum wiring is just the recipe for a loose connection some years in the future.

GJ

Here in NY The power companies won't allow split bolts anymore. I have repaired many, in years past. As soon as a customer says half my house is out that's where I look.

We now have to use either Hypress type connectors, most supply houses will rent you a mechanical crimper.

Or paralell groove connectors. Con Edison is only allowing a specific type of connector made by Richards, they come pre noaloxed and come with a plastic snap on cover.

Copper/Aluminum split bolt (for copper to aluminum connections), scotch 33 wrapped on backwards (sticky side out), cambric, linerless rubber (or scotch pad), scotch 33 again (sticky side down this time), and a layer of friction tape is my formula for noncrimp connections.
I use the same for gutters when I have to use split bolts. The backwards tape is used to make it easy on someone if they ever have to break those connections.
HMEL#688

Although the utility here cuts i their own drops with crimps, I have found the pre-insulated taps from NSI or Polaris to be a real time and labor saver on service upgrades when making a temporary connection to provide power until the inspection and final cutover. Be sure to get them back as they are almost $30 each for a 4/0 size.

Hey Watt Dr glad to see someone else tapes a splice with 33 before using splice tape. It does make it easier to undo later. I work on several pump motors we have to replace on a semi- regular basis that have the connections covered in splice tape and one guy does not use 33 before the splice tape, sure hate following him. Usually takes a day for the bleeding to stop after cutting the splice tape off.

spkjpr,
At least there's 2 of us out there. Jim M, we use those as well. I love 'em, and use them on all new installations. I've never thought about using them for a temporary "cut in". I'll keep it in mind the next time we have to do one.

I used to do a lot of residential service changes and my method was to use split bolts, and then call the power company to have them come out and do the permanent splice..and while thay are at it they could re-seal the meter ring.
In the situation that you are describing it sounds like it will be just your baby, so you'll be stuck with split bolts. Just be sure to utilize the separator plate that comes with the split bolt (Ilsco type SK)and cinch it down real good (without stripping the threads!). If this subpanel installation is something you can re-visit once a year for checking the tightening, then you should have no problems.

What is your opinions on the use of Ilsco ClearTaps? I have seen them used in some very large commerical installations and they seem to have worked very well. I have also used the Ideal Street Light Connectors for a variety of connections. They are a great way of avoiding bugging or crimping. Especially for instances where the setup is temporary.

Haven't had the need to use them, but they look like a real effective labor saver as long as they are in a dry location. Any taps with self insulating design are real time savers!