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#49178 03/01/05 08:32 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 687
A
Member
8500 sf is a lot of electrical designing for no $$. That sort of thang has happened to us with the below results after we waisted out time making drawings:

A. We figure in too much on our drawings and loose out to someone offering less.
B. Get the job. They end up using a designers electric drawings. Then we need to rebid it out with the new drawings.
C. Think we have the job. Meet with customer about design changes. Redo the drawings and bid then it fall thru.

I like it when the village rejects the blueprint electrical. Then you might get a code compliant drawing to bid on.

Unless I had a relationship with who you bidding to I would not waist my time. Think about it. There may be a few EC waisting hours of work to get a job that someone did not want to pay for a real electric print.

You can still give them a number to try and stay in the game. You could give them a price scedule for new construction. Or try to figure a number based on SF as a starting point $4.50-$5. No cans and these appliances with this service min code starting at $$$. Tell them you will be happy to meet with the customers and design a custom layout for $$$.

As for 3w switches depends on the town. Some want every entrance. Hallways some want a switch 3' from a door, others want 6', where some only have one on that end of the hall. I do a lot of 3w for conveniance, no inspector problems, and cause I get paid by the switch.

Tom

#49179 03/04/05 10:36 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 23
R
Member
Tell them you can engineer/design their electrical plans for a set fee that you will take off a portion of at bid price if they award contract to you. You can build your bid to make back this discount if you so desire then you get the job and if you don't you still get paid. If they are agreeable you could do it for T & M but I find this is usually a headache and they will want a ballpark. You could also establish a price for cans, outlets etc and tell them the prices for Kit. hr's etc is extra $$$ and the outlet count is the price if they want to walk it and add as you go you make out ok.


It does not matter if you win or lose but how you lay the blame :-)
#49180 03/05/05 02:10 AM
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 68
H
Member
Quote
gfretwell: The only place I know of that implies 3 ways are required is on stairways.

I don't see where 210.70(A)(2)(c) requires 3-ways, as one could install a light at each location that would light the stairs. and install a single pole switch to control each light at each floor level. I just think it's more convenient to use 3/4-ways?


Quote
210.70(A)(2)(c) Where one or more lighting outlet(s) are installed for interior stairways, there shall be a wall switch at each floor level, and landing level that includes an entry way, to control the lighting outlet(s) where the stairway between floor levels has six risers or more.

[This message has been edited by hurk27 (edited 03-05-2005).]


Be Fair, Be Safe
Just don't be Fairly Safe
#49181 03/05/05 08:44 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 34
I
Member
That's a fine idea - except if you were leaving the house - wouldn't you have to walk back upstairs to turn off the light @ the 1-pole switch and then down the stairs again to turn off the downstair light...or vice-versa. Or were you just planning on leaving the Upstairs light on while you were gone or the Downstair light on after you go to bed?

Or am I missing something here?

Seems to me that switching stairway lights with a 3-way is the more preferred wiring means.

[This message has been edited by Indcom (edited 03-05-2005).]


John C. Harvey
IndCom Electrical Estimates
#49182 03/05/05 12:24 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,931
Likes: 34
G
Member
I doubt you will slide the single pole solutions past plan review or the inspector ... if they see it.


Greg Fretwell
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