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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 814
B
Member
Check out the "No Dog" offset level.
When making a 90° with an offset at the end, is it best to make the offset first or the 90 first?

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,876
E
e57 Offline
Member
One problem with the "No Dog" level, WHERE DID IT GO?! (Otherwise great tool.)

I have lost 3! And now refuse to buy another until everyone else has one too.


Mark Heller
"Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 6
H
Junior Member
Ok, so by now we should be well versed with multipliers for 30's and 45's..

Ever tried in bend a 2 inch offset in 4" emt?
it won't fit, the shoe will hit the first bend.. Not enought distance between bends. need it decrease offset angle, for instance a 15 degree is 3.864.

here's a trick, if you have a calculater, you can figure any multiplier for any degree ofset:
<desired offset angle> * sin * 1/x
so another words, if i wanted the multiplier for 5 degree angle, i would hit 5, sine button, then 1/x button. gives you the multiplier.

Conduit Shrinkage
30 degrees shrinks 1/4" per every inch of offset
45 degrees shrinks 3/8" per every inch of offset
60 degrees shrinks a half inch.

ever seen a 3 pt saddle where the saddle is not centered over the obstacle? thats a huge pet peeve of mine. anyways, a 3 pt saddle shrinks 3/16" for every inch in the saddle.

hope this helps.

Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,294
Member
Sure you can bend PVC with a bender!
The little stuff, anyway.

Just try it sometime. 1/2 PVC in 3/4 EMT bender, 3/4 in a 1", or 1" in an 1-1/4.

Yeah, it springs back a lot so it's nowhere near as scientific as it could be, but with some practice, it works pretty well.

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 92
P
Member
BigB,
It might be easier to bend the offset before the 90º, especially if you're near the end of the tube. However, it might be easier to pull if you bend the ninety, and then put a kick into it. If you chose a suitably long distance from the 90º, you can achieve a fairly short degree of kick.

On another subject, Tony of Skelly showed me a random technique. He would bend the first bend to whatever he felt like. Then he would measure the desired offset from the floor to the pipe and mark it. I forget the details but he would place the bender in some relation to the mark and make the second bend. I would appreciate any clarification on this if any one has heard of it.
~Peter

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 151
D
Member
I generally eyeball the box offsets, and use the "Benfield" method for the rest.

I've used the "bender handle" method. Bend the first half of the offset, then lay a straight piece of pipe (a bender handle without the belled end of the newer factory handles works fine) parallel against the conduit you're bending, on the opposite side of the bend. Measure your wanted offset depth at a right angle from the inside edge of the straight piece to the conduit past the first kick. Your tape measure will be the "c" leg in the right triangle of the straight piece, the conduit and the tape. Where your wanted measurement meets the kicked conduit, that's your mark. The right angle part is important, too.

Clear as mud?

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