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#43804 10/23/04 07:38 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 79
C
Member
Like JoeyD, I have a TE76 and haven't had any problems driving in rods to date, it works like a champ. I actually triple check for underground nuisances like water mains, sewer lines, gas lines etc. 'cause that Hilti doesn't care. BTW, Hilti's are expensive but they do sell some bit package deals, which aren't bad so long as you have a use for all the bits in the package.
Andy

#43805 10/24/04 07:43 AM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,294
Member
Dave,
Sure, I'll try to check on Model # on Monday.

Guys,
Aren't ground rods supposed to be driven into undisturbed soil?? Is all this water-pouring and hole-drilling OK??

#43806 10/26/04 11:34 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 697
D
Dave55 Offline OP
Member
Thanks, guys. I really appreciate your input on this.

Dave

#43807 10/27/04 10:44 AM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,443
Likes: 3
Member
Dave,
I welded an old disused 30mm Diameter (Deep type) socket on to the end of a busted SDS (Hilti) bit, I've been drivin' with it ever since.
Just goes to show how versatile a welder can be. [Linked Image]

#43808 10/27/04 10:58 AM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,443
Likes: 3
Member
Dave,
Sorry I never read your original post.
I've used the TE-22 and the TE-25 Hilti's and I must say as far as an EC's piece of gear goes, GET ONE!.
I've used then for straight concrete drilling up to 32mm diameter.
Plus with a Core-Bit you can drill a hole up to 100mm diameter.
You very rarely ever see an EC down here in NZ that doesn't carry one of these drills, they are a truly Industrial-rated Hammer Drill.
Just watch the Boy around the smaller sized bits, they are easy to snap!. [Linked Image]

#43809 10/27/04 12:20 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 697
D
Dave55 Offline OP
Member
Thanks, Mike, I appreciate your reply. I have a smaller rotary hammer for the smaller bits. Now I just have to find a conversion table for mm to inches.

Dave

#43810 10/27/04 12:26 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 697
D
Dave55 Offline OP
Member
Is the TE-22 and 25 what you're using to drive ground rods also, Mike???

Dave

#43811 10/27/04 02:55 PM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 37
E
Member
Hi, Dave
How about this link for conversion. http://www.taylormade.com.au/billspages/conversion_table.html

#43812 10/27/04 04:12 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 697
D
Dave55 Offline OP
Member
Thanks, electricman786. So that's about 1.25" drill and 4" core.

Dave

#43813 10/27/04 10:20 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 615
J
Member
I've used the water trick too. It works great.

Dave, if you are looking to primarily drive ground rods, have you considered that fence post tool that is in the fencing material isle at Home Depot? It is a hollow cylinder with handels on both sides and a big weight at the top. Slide it up and down to drive it in. I haven't used one for that, I have a Bosch that I drive the last 2' after the water thing gets too tight. But I either saw someone else using it for that or maybe a home improvemnt show and thought, "hey, good idea"

My Bosch is either:
11219 EVS
11233 EVS
11220 EVS
11232 EVS

I don't know which one, I'm going off the manual here in the office.
Then get 1-3/8 X 18" spline drive. Extra length has been useful many times. takes the hub on 3/4 LB and will take a 1" HW. The smaller pipes get a little more silicone.
Then a chisel (longer is better), GR driver (after the second one cracked I just balance it on top. The guide cone cracks pretty easiliy, maybe user negligence letting the tool hang by it). And a 2-1/2 core bit.

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