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#39330 06/16/04 08:32 PM
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 507
G
Member
What is your preferred method for punching holes in stainless steel enclosures?

I've ruined hydraulic punch and die sets in the past, (split the die). Spent hours cutting and filing.

This time we are taking them to the local blacksmith who can burn them with a plasma torch. It's a hassle moving heavy enclosures and add a lot of time to the job.

How do you do it?

GJ

#39331 06/16/04 09:03 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 73
R
Member
It's been a while, but, the Greenlee Slug-buster with cutting oil on the die and punch. I heard the carbide tipped hole saws with lotsa cutting fluid at a real slow speed works. I would have to use drill bits to get to the size for the 1/2 inch punch. Last week I finally got around to putting some "white out" on the tiny lines for lining the punch up and boy is that nice to be able to see where it's supposed to be. I just smeared it on, wiped it off, and it stayed in the line.

#39332 06/16/04 09:40 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 599
N
Member
Greenlee makes dies for stainless steel. Also, when using a hole saw a little Beeswax works wonders. [Linked Image]

#39333 06/16/04 10:11 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 91
R
Member
heavy pressure. slow speed NO OIL, i can cut holes all day with this method. also. lennox hole saws and hacksaw blades are the best standard holesaw on the market. if you run the speed up you'll temper the stainless and regret it. the special greenlee dies are bronze colored . but ive found for 1/2"-1" you do just as much work making the hole for the lug as hole sawing. also, try using an 11/4 fender washer to stop the holesaw from digging in when you drill your pilot hole.

#39334 06/16/04 10:29 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 947
T
twh Offline
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#39335 06/17/04 04:16 AM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 394
B
Member
I'll second rizer on the slow and heavy for drilling. I recently had a project that involved installing some SS continuous hinge. I ruined several bits before I went with low speed. Once I figured that out, one bit made a couple of dozen holes without being reshapened.

#39336 06/17/04 11:25 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 73
C
Member
golf junkie

Man memories:

I agree with "Ralpha494".

We have worked alot with SS enclosures. In the begining I would jump would go nut's at the length of time and tool damage in punching holes in enclosures.
So I broke down and purchased a varity of Greenlee Slug-buster sizes along with SS Draw studs, and Titanium Drill bits for that first hole.
We still have tham after numerous years in their own little tool box just for SS work.
One thing we noticed is if your punching a bigger hole i.e. 11/4" we punch 1/2" first, then do the 1" stud, then to the 1/1/4".
This way the Power unit and punches do not over work, seems to take awhile but it is actually better than breaking a die set or draw stud and having to run around and buy one, which cost's more.
PS. The little bit of oil on the punch side of the buster.

#39337 06/18/04 07:39 PM
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 507
G
Member
thanks for all the tips guys.

GJ

#39338 06/19/04 12:03 AM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 642
N
Member
Found out that slow speed ,cuting oil and carbide tipped holesaws work best for me


ed
#39339 06/19/04 04:08 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 75
S
Member
In order to get our first hole started in SS we usually use a TEK screw that way we don't destroy our drill bits and they are faster.


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