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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 939
F
Member
Mike now you mention GE low voltage system switching devices yeah i do rember them very well most of the time it work pretty good but when the relay go bad it get crappy espcally with the power supply

Merci , Marc


Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)

Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 276
T
Member
Yes, thank god they still make those power supplies. When those start to go the system really starts to freak out and behave strangely. I also think for the price the lite-touch switches aren't as durable as they could be, compared to a regular old average quality line voltage switch. That open design lets junk get between the contacts, and it seems like people unfamiliar with lite touch don't "get" that you don't need to hammer the touchpad for the light to come on. I wouldn't want to have one of these systems in a rental property.

Last edited by trollog; 07/18/07 10:30 PM.
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 20
J
Junior Member
Freaking NIGHTMARE they are.

You have to troubleshoot TWO systems and every 50's system I've seen (in AZ) has the relays in the ATTIC!!...and it is always a total rat's nest!!!

Sometimes the relays are DC.

You can't simply add a dimmer.

You have to hunt for parts.

I have seen a few CURRENT systems. I can't believe that someone would think this is a good idea. Just because you CAN do something doesn't mean you SHOULD.

I have torn out a few of these systems and replaced them with standard wiring.

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,498
T
Member
Relay switched systems are pretty common in Europe, I'm pretty surprised they don't exist in NZ. Realys can be mounted in a box or in a DIN rail panel and are either 230V or 12V AC operated (230V being far more common). Most "modern" electricians use those systems where ever they have to control lights from more than 2 points. If you want a dimmer you have to switch out the relay, the switches stay the same.
Everything works with simple bell buttons. One push: on. Second push: off. Dimming: push: switch to previously set state. Hold: dim from low to full until button is released. There are both mechanic relays and electronic flip-flops. I don't like either of them because I think it makes the wiring a mess if you have to run every light feed back to the panel and the mechanic relays make quite some noise. And don't even ask me about adding anything electronic to 230V house wiring smile

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 745
M
Member
Perhaps someone who has worked with these LV systems can elighten me here. Regarding the system I described for the church, I remember that two of the twelve circuits controlled eight enormous ceiling chandeliers. I don't know the actual load of each chandelier, but I would guess them to be roughly 1700-1800 watts each, and four chandeliers were switched by a single LV circuit. I would assume that the LV side of the relays could be wired in parallel (i.e. one LV circuit could operate, in this case, four relays simultaneously), since one of the breaker panels contained an individual 20a breaker for each chandelier, plus numerous breakers for other lights (pulpit, chancel, choir, baptistry, wall washers, etc.).

Were these relays available as multi-pole units, or of larger power-handling capacity?

Mike (mamills)

Last edited by mamills; 07/20/07 01:02 PM.
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 265
S
Member
The last one with relays that we worked at was from the 60's/ 70's era, complete with an intercom system with built-in AM radio throughout. We call it the Brady Bunch House.


Sixer

"Will it be cheaper if I drill the holes for you?"
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 169
S
Member
Thankks for all the feedback. The guy I work for part time ( He is in his 60s) knew exactley what this was. Bet its the last time he sends me out to look at something for him.Now that I have a little idea what it is its time for some more reading and studying. Thanks again gang you guys (and gals) are the best.
Steve

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 16
T
Member
First two houses I wired back in 1954 both had GE LV wiring with the relays located in the ceiling boxes. One of the useful features was a central control that the HO wanted was located in the master BR so that he could turn on most of the lights inside and out side from his bed with a twist of the control. The system seemed to be a good idea but we never did any more.

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 717
M
Member
In troubleshooting old lv lighting systems, the major problem I encounter is not failed relays. It is the twisted bell wire used for the switch legs to the relays. That red/white twisted bell wire that they used a lot of for that and doorbell wiring eventually degrades and cracks apart shorting out the secondary circuit of the transformer.

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