ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area What about height?

For residential I agree with silverbk.
42" to bottom on switches, 46" for countertop.

For commercial.....they are all spec'd different...just follow the specbook.

GJ

Uh... I always thought an "electrician's hammer" was a pair of lineman's pliers, usually Klein's...

And an "electrician's chisel" a Klein screwdriver...

Tap Tap Tap on the locknuts...


I guess we were saying about the same thing then...!

Sorry I read through the posts quickly and got in a hurry to put in my 2 cents worth...


[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 05-01-2001).]

Is there any restrictions about placing residential outlets higher than 18" in other than the kitchen and bathroom? An electrition's helper who worked for another contractor told me that was against the code, but I wasn't aware of any such thing.

Placing some outlets high in certain areas might make sense where it is known certain furniture may be placed and an outlet is desired to be located where it will be accessible above it.

Could this be a regulation just in NYC?

There is no height limitation, however if they are the required wall space receptacles spoken of in section 210.52, they can be no higher 5'6" A.F.F.

I've enjoyed the regular use of an Ideal electrician's hammer since the mid '80s. One piece steel with leather grip, straight claw and a pommel long enough to readily strike the inside bottom of a 2-1/8" deep j-box. The claw makes a darn good demo tool for knocking a box hole in stucco or cement block, along with hacking drywall and wood. One claw is now slightly shorter and about 7° out from the other, and I'm coming to terms with having to break in a new one.

Sw - 48" OC ARF
O - 12" OC ARF
Kitchens & Baths 44" OC ARF

42" to bottom in kitchen and baths
46" to bottom on all switches
and hammer height on regular receptacles

any more kentucky electricians using this
forum?

Switches 48" AFF to center

Outlets Power, Voice, Data 18" AFF to center.

44" AFF is common above work surfaces.

The rockers always use rotozips and 99% of the time they run the sheets vertical.

Most times one senior guy goes along with the prints, tape measure and sharpie putting a height mark along with circuit and panel #, box type if not single gang, also indicate if horizontal mounting.

At the point we are marking and mounting boxes all the homeruns and many of the jumpers are pulled and tied to the ceiling, waiting for walls.

Bob




[This message has been edited by iwire (edited 11-03-2003).]

I can't do "hammer height" because I almost never use a hammer!
Due to ADA, etc., I've gotten in the habit of placing the bottom of my box at 18" above the unfinished floor- or, alternatively, matching the location of existing receptacles.
I tend to place my switches at 48" from box bottom to floor. This is a little higher than many, but the sheetrock guy only has to make one cut in each piece of rock (receptacle in bottom piece, switch in top piece.)
Data/Phone at same height as receptacles.
Thermostat at 60", box CENTER to floor.

Other spacings:
Try to place switches at least 6" from rough door opening, to allow for molding, etc.
Try to place receptacles so that they will be next to, not behind, furniture.
Also try to anticipate door swing, so door doesn't block.

John: You mention the ADA in your post for receptacle outlets, but do you realize that the elevations you install switches and thermostats at do not comply with the ADAAG?

Consider when installing light switches that young childern will want to be able to operate them. I was about 4 years old and knew what the light switch in my bedroom was for, and wanted to turn the lights on or off. Couldn't reach it (it's 4 and a half feet high), so I climbed onto the bed (which was next to the door and switch). While reaching for the switch I fell down and my chin found the doorknob. Ouch!