To follow along with our series with the Taped/Untaped Plastic/Metal box .. etc
At what height do We put our outlets, switches, etc?

I personally go with 'Height of a Hammer' and 48 on center for switches. Countertop and Bathroom outlets @ 44.

Is this the norm? (except ADA)

Bill

I generally follow these heights also. Of course in kitchen and baths I try to find out sizes of backsplashes and if wall tile is going to be used.

I use the hammer height for receptacles and 42" to center of box for switches and counter top receptacles. 42" keeps you away from mud joints and is clear of counter backsplashes on standard countertop height.

Outlets hammer height
switches 42" to the bottom of the box, easier to measure to bottom, and sheetrockers only have to cut one board, so you don't get loads of joint compound smeared into the box.
Kitchens 46" to the bottom of the box, has worked out in every house I've done. Usually puts the outlet midway between counter and top cabinet.

On stairways and landings I try to compensate for the depth or height of the landing to make the switch comfortable for the owner. I try not to deviate from the stock heights, because it makes finding a buried box harder, when you have to guess where to look.

Hammer height on recepts...
(you guys with helpers, do you use the same brand of hammer?)

44" CL Counter Tops

On 8' ceilings, I measure 48 1/2" (top of box) from the ceiling to place switches, the drywallers only have to cut one piece this way, and they really appreciate that.



[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 05-01-2001).]

Virgil,
ya gotta keep the drywallers happy!, else they use the long bits to knaw up your wires!
they also like consistent, so i use a precut stick of wood ( rec & sw).

'66,

Good point with the brand of Hammer! I've had it happen. There can be quite a difference between the types of Hammer too!

Does anyone use an "Electrician's Hammer"?
I've got one that's never been used.

Sparky,

I once saw an adjustable 'Thingamabob' where you set the height and just laid the box on top and nailed it on. I saw it at one of the suppliers and thought it looked interesting, they never stocked it though. Your 'stick of wood' idea is cheaper. That's a keeper!


Bill

Bill,
I have a steel electricians hammer. Long thin head to nail through the back of a box, when nails were more commonly used and a straight claw to remove the box later. Nice leather handle,13 3/4" long circa 1985.

Redsy,

Sounds very similar to mine (Estwing) I was looking for a picture of one and couldn't find one. It has a Woodgrain handle long narrow nose/head. It just never had the right 'feel' for me and the head was too small for general purpose nailing (kept missing )

Bill

My wife bought me a Klein electrician's hammer. It has an extra long nose for nailing deep boxes in the back. It is also 16" from top of the head to the end of the handle. I have always set my boxes at 13" with a "standard" 16oz. straight claw hammer. I have my "electrician's hammer" hanging on display in the shop. Only used it one day.

For residential I agree with silverbk.
42" to bottom on switches, 46" for countertop.

For commercial.....they are all spec'd different...just follow the specbook.

GJ

Uh... I always thought an "electrician's hammer" was a pair of lineman's pliers, usually Klein's...

And an "electrician's chisel" a Klein screwdriver...

Tap Tap Tap on the locknuts...


I guess we were saying about the same thing then...!

Sorry I read through the posts quickly and got in a hurry to put in my 2 cents worth...


[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 05-01-2001).]

Is there any restrictions about placing residential outlets higher than 18" in other than the kitchen and bathroom? An electrition's helper who worked for another contractor told me that was against the code, but I wasn't aware of any such thing.

Placing some outlets high in certain areas might make sense where it is known certain furniture may be placed and an outlet is desired to be located where it will be accessible above it.

Could this be a regulation just in NYC?

There is no height limitation, however if they are the required wall space receptacles spoken of in section 210.52, they can be no higher 5'6" A.F.F.

I've enjoyed the regular use of an Ideal electrician's hammer since the mid '80s. One piece steel with leather grip, straight claw and a pommel long enough to readily strike the inside bottom of a 2-1/8" deep j-box. The claw makes a darn good demo tool for knocking a box hole in stucco or cement block, along with hacking drywall and wood. One claw is now slightly shorter and about 7° out from the other, and I'm coming to terms with having to break in a new one.

Sw - 48" OC ARF
O - 12" OC ARF
Kitchens & Baths 44" OC ARF

42" to bottom in kitchen and baths
46" to bottom on all switches
and hammer height on regular receptacles

any more kentucky electricians using this
forum?

Switches 48" AFF to center

Outlets Power, Voice, Data 18" AFF to center.

44" AFF is common above work surfaces.

The rockers always use rotozips and 99% of the time they run the sheets vertical.

Most times one senior guy goes along with the prints, tape measure and sharpie putting a height mark along with circuit and panel #, box type if not single gang, also indicate if horizontal mounting.

At the point we are marking and mounting boxes all the homeruns and many of the jumpers are pulled and tied to the ceiling, waiting for walls.

Bob




[This message has been edited by iwire (edited 11-03-2003).]

I can't do "hammer height" because I almost never use a hammer!
Due to ADA, etc., I've gotten in the habit of placing the bottom of my box at 18" above the unfinished floor- or, alternatively, matching the location of existing receptacles.
I tend to place my switches at 48" from box bottom to floor. This is a little higher than many, but the sheetrock guy only has to make one cut in each piece of rock (receptacle in bottom piece, switch in top piece.)
Data/Phone at same height as receptacles.
Thermostat at 60", box CENTER to floor.

Other spacings:
Try to place switches at least 6" from rough door opening, to allow for molding, etc.
Try to place receptacles so that they will be next to, not behind, furniture.
Also try to anticipate door swing, so door doesn't block.

John: You mention the ADA in your post for receptacle outlets, but do you realize that the elevations you install switches and thermostats at do not comply with the ADAAG?

Consider when installing light switches that young childern will want to be able to operate them. I was about 4 years old and knew what the light switch in my bedroom was for, and wanted to turn the lights on or off. Couldn't reach it (it's 4 and a half feet high), so I climbed onto the bed (which was next to the door and switch). While reaching for the switch I fell down and my chin found the doorknob. Ouch!