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Joined: Oct 2000
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To follow along with our series with the Taped/Untaped Plastic/Metal box .. etc At what height do We put our outlets, switches, etc?
I personally go with 'Height of a Hammer' and 48 on center for switches. Countertop and Bathroom outlets @ 44.
Is this the norm? (except ADA)
Bill
Bill
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I generally follow these heights also. Of course in kitchen and baths I try to find out sizes of backsplashes and if wall tile is going to be used.
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I use the hammer height for receptacles and 42" to center of box for switches and counter top receptacles. 42" keeps you away from mud joints and is clear of counter backsplashes on standard countertop height.
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Outlets hammer height switches 42" to the bottom of the box, easier to measure to bottom, and sheetrockers only have to cut one board, so you don't get loads of joint compound smeared into the box. Kitchens 46" to the bottom of the box, has worked out in every house I've done. Usually puts the outlet midway between counter and top cabinet.
On stairways and landings I try to compensate for the depth or height of the landing to make the switch comfortable for the owner. I try not to deviate from the stock heights, because it makes finding a buried box harder, when you have to guess where to look.
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Hammer height on recepts... (you guys with helpers, do you use the same brand of hammer?)
44" CL Counter Tops
On 8' ceilings, I measure 48 1/2" (top of box) from the ceiling to place switches, the drywallers only have to cut one piece this way, and they really appreciate that.
[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 05-01-2001).]
-Virgil Residential/Commercial Inspector 5 Star Inspections Member IAEI
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Virgil, ya gotta keep the drywallers happy!, else they use the long bits to knaw up your wires! they also like consistent, so i use a precut stick of wood ( rec & sw).
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'66, Good point with the brand of Hammer! I've had it happen. There can be quite a difference between the types of Hammer too! Does anyone use an "Electrician's Hammer"? I've got one that's never been used. Sparky, I once saw an adjustable 'Thingamabob' where you set the height and just laid the box on top and nailed it on. I saw it at one of the suppliers and thought it looked interesting, they never stocked it though. Your 'stick of wood' idea is cheaper. That's a keeper! Bill
Bill
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Originally posted by Bill Addiss: '66,
Good point with the brand of Hammer! I've had it happen. There can be quite a difference between the types of Hammer too!
Does anyone use an "Electrician's Hammer"? I've got one that's never been used.
Sparky,
I once saw an adjustable 'Thingamabob' where you set the height and just laid the box on top and nailed it on. I saw it at one of the suppliers and thought it looked interesting, they never stocked it though. Your 'stick of wood' idea is cheaper. That's a keeper!
BillBill, I have a steel electricians hammer. Long thin head to nail through the back of a box, when nails were more commonly used and a straight claw to remove the box later. Nice leather handle,13 3/4" long circa 1985.
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Redsy, Sounds very similar to mine (Estwing) I was looking for a picture of one and couldn't find one. It has a Woodgrain handle long narrow nose/head. It just never had the right 'feel' for me and the head was too small for general purpose nailing (kept missing ) Bill
Bill
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My wife bought me a Klein electrician's hammer. It has an extra long nose for nailing deep boxes in the back. It is also 16" from top of the head to the end of the handle. I have always set my boxes at 13" with a "standard" 16oz. straight claw hammer. I have my "electrician's hammer" hanging on display in the shop. Only used it one day.
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