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#114120 01/10/03 02:41 AM
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,116
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The Photos shown are actually of a Range with #6 stranded wiring (as it states below the first picture). I didn't have any pictures of actual Dryer wiring, so I used the Range pictures because of the similarity in hookup. Ranges and Dryer connections are very similar in appearance and need the same modifications done to accept a 4 wire cable or cord.

[Linked Image] [Linked Image] My new Dryer is coming tomorrow and I can take some pictures of that.

Bill


Bill
#114121 01/10/03 11:19 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 209
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To someone in Ohio,

Log on and join in. Many of us here are not electricians and all types are welcome here. If you dont't believe me check out some of the other threads.

It don't cost you nothin' and maybe you can help us find where the Jackalope roam.

Scott

#114122 01/12/03 08:42 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,081
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Is this clothes dryer wiring incorrect (never mind the strain-relief that isn't doing a thing)?

[Linked Image from 65.108.216.53]

#114123 01/12/03 09:04 PM
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ThinkGood,

Connections look right for a 3 wire hookup, assuming the green wire has not been cut or disconnected inside.

Bill


Bill
#114124 01/12/03 09:29 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
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Where is that green wire going to or coming from ?

If this dryer cord is for the EXISTING 3W plug and receptacle, then maybe that green wire should be attached to the Grounded Conductor terminal.

Read the installation instructions.

Is that white area metal?

#114125 01/12/03 11:27 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
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This is "existing", and the white area is metal.

I thought the green wire should be going to the center screw, but this is how it was when I looked at it.

As to where the green wire is going to/coming from, I'm not sure...

[This message has been edited by ThinkGood (edited 01-12-2003).]

#114126 01/12/03 11:41 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 558
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The green wire is the factory installed bonding jumper between the neutral and the frame. The other end of it is connected to the center screw on the terminal strip but you can't see it from the picture because its connected on the back side. If a 4-wire cord is used then this green wire needs to be disconnected from the frame screw and taped up or many instructions tell you to connect it to the center terminal with the neutral wire which connects it to itself.

Curt


Curt Swartz
#114127 01/13/03 12:15 AM
Joined: Aug 2002
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Thanks, Curt!

#114128 01/19/03 11:01 AM
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Posts: 7,520
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Bill,
In your "before" picture of the range wiring with #6 conductors, it's obivous that it's bad wiring, but would this be a violation of 110.14(A) ('02 NEC) ?

Quote

110.14 (A) Terminals. Connection of conductors to terminal parts shall ensure a thoroughly good connection without damaging the conductors and shall be made by means of pressure connectors (including set-screw type), solder lugs, or splices to flexible leads. Connection by means of wire-binding screws or studs and nuts that have upturned lugs or the equivalent shall be permitted for 10 AWG or smaller conductors.

That last sentence seems to imply that the stud/nut terminals on that range are not allowed to be used directly with anything larger than #10 wire.

#114129 01/19/03 12:02 PM
Joined: Oct 2000
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Paul,

That's the way I'd interpret that too. I didn't think of it being a code violation specifically, just that it obviously is not a good connection. Boy, you're really getting into that Codebook over there! [Linked Image]

Bill

[This message has been edited by Bill Addiss (edited 01-19-2003).]


Bill
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