As stated above, if you are not 100% sure of your capability to safely service the well-pump switchgear, hire an electrician, but as mxslick says, good advise not to mess with it if it ain't busted.
Breaker operation aside, the following may be of interest:
1. Striking a balance between pump on [ = pressure drop] and pump off [ = pressure rise] is difficult. I try and aim for 45-55 psi maximum pressure, [ie = off], as a target for the domestic supply. The 'trigger' on most pump switches I've seen consists of a floating beam with springs either side, which 'toggle' the contacts using a diaphragm-type 'piston' running on pump water pressure for power. The problem is, when you adjust one spring, [ say pressure rise = off], you also adjust the other one, [ pressure fall = on]. You can end up chasing your tail for hours adjusting first one then the other to get acceptable function between switch positions. The problems with adjustment are exaggerated if there is any kind of pressurised storage-tank in the system, [ usually consisting of a vessel with air trapped in the upper half, which acts as a buffer to reduce pump hunting.] Having a buffer vessel allows you to trickle water from a faucet without the pump chattering on and off, so it's well worth having. No pun intended!
2. In surface mounted-pumps, there is a non-return valve and strainer down the well on the end of the suction pipe. This must be in top-notch condition. If it has the slightest 'weep-back' the pump will hunt regularly, and will drive you nuts if it 'blips' every half-hour through the night. In a power outage, such a weep may mean re-priming the pump, depending on model, so if you get a weeping NRV, fix it pronto. This problem does not apply to deep-bore pipe wells where the pump is down the borepipe, of course.
3. If you are used to a public supply, it's advisable to get your water tested for bacteria, parasites and nitrates/nitrites etc., ASAP.
For living organisms, take the advice of the testing laboratory as to safe levels, depending on species - BTW, there are lots of harmless bacteria species, so don't get paranoid!
EPA public supply max level for nitrate = 10ppm.
EPA "ditto" level for nitite = 1 ppm.
You can 'shock-disinfect' a well with chlorine for biological organisms- just Google "disinfect well WI" for several useful Wisconsin sites.
If you do have higher than 'normal' levels of organisms, you will also need to take steps to eliminate the source of the problem, or they'll be back!
If the nitrate/nitrite levels are above the EPA levels quoted, note that European 'safe' levels are some 5 times higher for some reason. EPA levels are set by what they consider as economically feasible for a utility to provide for a public water supply. If you are worried by high nitrogen levels, consult a physician, or use bottled water for drinking/ teeth cleaning etc..
Hope this helps. Oh, and welcome back, BTW.
Alan
ps. My latest problem was.... a Frog! [ The amphibian sort, not a citizen !]. It decided to get sucked into the wellpump, [due to a missing bung I forgot to fit ], and siezed up the primary turbine: $200 pump wrecked. I'll post a pic shortly.
[This message has been edited by Alan Belson (edited 08-11-2006).]
