Tell me the B+ and B- rails in the amp and I'll tell you the best possible RMS output into the speaker load.... It's all about the math folks.
I use to work at a 'electronics place' while at university. One day I hauled out my signal generator, dummy loads, and O-scope. Oddly enough the RMS ratings on the amps were actually right across a pretty wide range. I was impressed.
The only product that I have ever seen rated properly has been Sony audio equipment. Their typical rating is x Watts RMS at x ohms from xHz to xKhz with x%THD.
I would still recommend a low THD. Your ears might not be able to hear it but your speakers will have to deal with it. THD means heat to speaker coils.
Some of these new car amps will drive loads down to 1 ohm or less and keep dumping out the current. Basically pulling more watts out of the amp.
As far as home amps go. If you are spending anything in the US$500 range for a home amp then you are probably getting what's stamped on the amp in RMS power. (ie. Sony, JVC, Denon, Kenwood, etc)
Peak power is something I just love. Couple a marketing degree with an engineering degree and that amplifier can be as big as you want it to read....
"electro-mechanical Ether coupling system".....speakers!! Sign me up for marketing.
Dereckbc, one day a few years back I walked by the trash bin at work. Inside was a McIntosh amp totally stripped. My heart skipped a beat. The only thing left that even caused me to look was the nameplate on the front in that nice raised script. My friend, who was with me at the time, took the nameplate and put it on his Mac PC. At least a portion of it got to live on... People are stupid...amps are so easy to fix.
RSlater,
RSmike
