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#7296 - 01/30/02 10:05 AM Engineered Wood Joist  
Ron Hoback  Offline
Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13
Has anyone wired a residential basement with the new engineered wood joists? They look like an I-Beam made out of wood, with a 2x3 on the top and bottom, and CDX plywood 1/2 X 12 in the center. I was wondering where you attach the boxes, and what do you use to staple the Romex to them.


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#7297 - 01/30/02 10:19 AM Re: Engineered Wood Joist  
Redsy  Offline
Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,056
Bucks County PA
Ron,
We had a thread titled "Drilling Beams" about 2 months back that had lots of info on these products, including a link to manufacturers.


#7298 - 01/30/02 10:29 AM Re: Engineered Wood Joist  
Joe Tedesco  Offline
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,749
Boston, Massachusetts USA


Joe Tedesco, NEC Consultant

#7299 - 01/30/02 11:15 PM Re: Engineered Wood Joist  
sparky66wv  Offline
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236
West Virginia
I think that thread was about "Glulam" which differs from the I-beam with an "OSB" web and cap strips made of actual lumber...

Most that I've seen have "knock-outs" about every four feet, I would guess by the location of the KO's that anywhere along the web, dead center vertically, is fair game.

Just MHO...


-Virgil
Residential/Commercial Inspector
5 Star Inspections
Member IAEI

#7300 - 01/31/02 12:19 AM Re: Engineered Wood Joist  
Sandro  Offline
Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 444
Stoney Creek, ON, Canada
These joists are used widely in our area. You can pretty much drill any where on the web of these joists, provided that your hole isn't larger than 1" You are permitted to make larger holes, but you must stay away from either end of the joist. Most lumber yards/suppliers will provide you with a schedule of how far you have to be from the ends of the joist to make a larger diameter hole. Naturally, the wider the joist, the better support it provides, and the closer you can drill at either end of the joist. Also as pointed out earlier, some manufacturers have premade 'knockouts' running at 2-4' intervals along the span of the joist. Just take a hammer and punch them out. A really ingenious idea and saves much drilling. As far as mounting of the boxes and stapling, we use the lower part of the 2x3 for this, just as you would on a normal wood joist.

Cheers!

[This message has been edited by Sandro (edited 01-30-2002).]


#7301 - 01/31/02 07:35 AM Re: Engineered Wood Joist  
Redsy  Offline
Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,056
Bucks County PA
I think the link addresses both types of products (I-joists & Glulam).


#7302 - 01/31/02 09:32 AM Re: Engineered Wood Joist  
sparky66wv  Offline
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236
West Virginia
Doh... You're right Redsy, it does...

(Boy I should read more thouroughly before I speak...)


-Virgil
Residential/Commercial Inspector
5 Star Inspections
Member IAEI

#7303 - 01/31/02 03:24 PM Re: Engineered Wood Joist  
Ron Hoback  Offline
Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13
I received this answer from a Enginer at Boise Cascade Wood Products.
It is ok to attach lightweight items like light boxes to either the
bottom flange or web of BCI joists. Generally, 8d nails are the best to
use for light loads such as yours. Drywall/wood screws less than 3/16"
in diameter are good too. The most important thing is to not use too big
a nail/screw as you could split the flange. Page 31 of our specifier
guide http://www.bcewp.com/ssg2001-31.pdf has a table showing the
closest allowable nail spacings.

Frank Powell, Jr. P.E.
Product Application Engineer
Boise Cascade


#7304 - 02/01/02 09:00 AM Re: Engineered Wood Joist  
electure  Offline


Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,259
Fullerton, CA USA
We use these a lot. The general rule we've been asked to follow is that any conduit larger than 1" must be supported by the top flange. (w/ angle bracket and rod)

[This message has been edited by electure (edited 02-01-2002).]


#7305 - 02/02/02 12:51 PM Re: Engineered Wood Joist  
Mike Wescoatt  Offline
Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 161
Cedar City, Utah
For attaching larger things like fan support boxes use a couple of pieces of 3/4" blocking on either side of the OSB web with a little construction adhesive and screws long enough to go through to the other blocking piece. This allows you to put screws in the bottom runner as well as above in the web area. Builders always have scraps of 3/4" OSB sheathing laying around that are perfect for this.


Mike Wescoatt


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