I have a situation where a EGC will not fit on the neutral bar in the service equipment. I have tried to find a listed and same manufacturer add-on grounding lug kit to no avail.Except for the article 110 listing requirement issue is there anything wrong with installing a bolt-on lug of proper size and bolting it to the side of the panel with a nut and bolt? Code references please. Thanks

Greg:
I don't have the bible handy, but...
Common practice around these parts has been:

Drill enclosure, as required.
Remove paint from enclosure.
Mount suilable size lug.
Bolt, nut, flat and STAR washers.
(Internal/external lockwashers)

John

Yep, and just remember EGC- ok, GEC-not ok, must be bonded to the grounded conductor at the service.

What size ECG is this? Many panels over the last ten years or so will accept #14 -#4 in every hole. The hole might look too small, but break out the inspection mirror and look real close, or look at the label for the ratings. You might be surpized to find it might fit. If not you can bolt just about any add-on lug, or bar, in the method John described for EGC.

I would drill and tap a hole in the panel and mount a lug. As long as the neutral is bonded to the enclosure properly it should be sufficient. Don't listen to sanding the paint off the panel. This is not required and in fact in itself a violation of the code.

Paul,

When is the last time you read 250.12????
Don

Don

When was the last time you read 300.6 Protection from Corrosion, or the other articles that require that paint protecting the enclosure. Possibly you require the removal of the Neutral bus and the paint sanded off although the UL listing and the code approves bonding through a screw and a tapped hole as long as it is not a sheet metal screw.

Paul

Paul, if your fitting or attachment is designed to penetrate the coating or paint that is required by 300.6, then you are correct, if not, 250.12 trumps 300.6.

If you don't agree with this, then the two article sections are in contradiction of each other, and I would choose to violate 300.6 and go with 250.12.

Remember a threaded hole is not required for this attachment, it is simply a preference, a bolt and nut can be used.

Roger

In my opinion all of you are flirting with disaster.

Most panels are not made of cans with thick enough metal to take the required two full threads when tapped.

Removing the paint to attach a lug is dangerous for the stated reason, and, the unreliablity of field installed lugs. (What nationally recognized testing labroratory has tested these connections and has detailed the steps to follow?)

The only grounding connections I would approve are the neutral or ground bus, the supplemental grounding bus kit (installed in the pre-formed holes, using the included self-tapping screws) or a grounding bushing.

IMO after removing the paint for the required non resistive connection, you should hit the bare ferrous surface with this, or something like it after making your connection.



A rusty connection is just as resistive as a painted surface.