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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,294
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These crimps were used a lot during the '50s and '60s in residential applications. The bummer is that the conductors were often cut off very short, so they're an absolute nightmare to work on (cut crimp connector). They're also a PT70 or PT70M Sta-kon by T&B.
Wire nuts? I use Oranges, the Ideal tan "Twister" (end fits in nut driver) instead of the yellows now, Reds, lg.Greys, and lg.Blues. Anything larger gets an insulated multi-tap connector (Ilsco, NSI, etc)
[This message has been edited by electure (edited 02-07-2003).]
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,233
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Has anyone try or used those new style of wirenuts? The ones where you can install 3 or 4 wires and there is no twisting. You just strip your wires, insert the wires into a square orange colored connector and it works like the pin back on a receptacle. I don't remember the name of them. I do know that they would send out free samples. I have seen them but not used them. I can go look into one of my magazines to get the name of it.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 552
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Harold, Is it these made by Wago? Has anyone seen these or found a use for them?They are made by Ideal.I prefer a crimper myself. [This message has been edited by txsparky (edited 02-08-2003).]
Donnie
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Joined: Nov 2002
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txsparky, I have seen similar ones made by ideal, but have not had the nerve to try them.
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Joined: Dec 2000
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I have no faith in the Wagos for anything beyond a fluorescent ballast replacement or similar very low load. I just tore one apart that was sitting on my desk. There is only about 3/16" of contact surface on just one side of the conductor, and the other side is held in by spring pressure in the same manner as a "back-stab-in" receptacle. The contact surface is apparently aluminum, and the spring seems to be stainless steel. Maybe it's just me, but I don't feel this is a sufficient connection.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,233
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Yeah, That is them.
I have seen some union workers here in NJ use the Wago's because it was quicker and it was easier on their hands. I have only seen them on one job as of yet. I myseld have recieved the freee samples, but I am out of the business and was just wondering about them.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 939
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the wires nuts i use are orange yellow red green (or bare crimp) grey and ex. large bleu wirenuts all expect orange are wing type and i do pre twist it then put it on by hand or use nut driver on the top of them (5/16 or 3/8 depend on which nuts to use ) and put the nuts upright way prevent get wet inside or any other damage stuff get in i use the tape ???? not too often very few places i use that mainaly outdoor light fixures where it subject alot of viberation then i go with crimp type. it is very simauar with europen practices too ( i use french wireing techines with nec codes but allready converted to americanie wireing standards it is more easier than france but i am not sure about uk or other places )
merci marc
Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 161
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I was kind of skeptical of the Wago wirenuts until I found wire nuts sitting in the bottom of one of my machine cabinets. The wirenut had vibrated loose and fell off. I use Wago terminal blocks all the time in machine controllers because they are very vibration resistant. I have been using the Wago wirenuts for a few years now and no problems at all. The electrical contact bar is tin plated copper and the steel pressure plate is made of high tension spring steel. It cleans oxidation off the wire and places a considerable amount more pressure than any backstab with a brass pressure plate. They are also UL listed for use with al/al or al/cu with Wago Noalox. I have also been using them in my own home for a couple of years with no callbacks from the wife and the inspectors have no problem with them. I feel like a salesman but they are easier than wirenuts with solid wire and stranded (with a little practice) and my wrist doesnt hurt at the end of the day. I tested them for insulation and contact resistance and they scored better than the Ideal wirenuts on their insulation resistance and had comperable values for contact resistance.
Mike Wescoatt
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 59
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When I got started in this trade the rule of thumb taught to me was yellow "wingnuts" was for 3 #12s and reds were for 5 #12s. Any combo that was close to that size.Mini's were for fl. lites ballast change out or in some fix it shop repairing old lamps....... As for stab in splices it is about the same as backstabbing a recept. Its no good to get in that big of a hurry, never time to do it rite but time to come back and do it over. Twisting wires that are the same guage is good but not twisting smaller guages to larger ones, the wirenut will do that for you---better. Anyway I'm not doing that any more so no advice.
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Tom
Shinnston, WV USA
Posts: 1,044
Joined: January 2001
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