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#75185 02/16/07 12:41 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 751
E
Member
I'd check for loose connections at a J-box in the ceiling feeding the suspect fixtures. Perhaps in a shared neutral return with the fixtures next door? A neutral pinched in the ballast cover could allow enough current flow to sometimes strike the tube.


Earl
#75186 02/17/07 12:31 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 187
HCE727 Offline OP
Member
All connections were checked, working back to the switch. A suspect ground was respliced, which was thought to be the problem. All of the light worked fine after that. Then the problem started again.


Hank
#75187 02/18/07 10:56 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 376
F
Member
It will either be a ground or the sockets if you have replaced the ballast already.Most likely the sockets.The stab locks can be bad out of the box.Either the connection is no good or oxidation has set in making it resistive.And you just can't see it until you break it open.The wire will have a green coating where it was in contact with the spring.I have pull plenty of hair out over this myself.
cheers




[This message has been edited by frank (edited 02-18-2007).]

#75188 02/18/07 12:38 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 187
HCE727 Offline OP
Member
It cannot be that, the original fixture that started this whole problem was relocated and it works fine.


Hank
#75189 02/19/07 11:44 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 886
H
Member
Believe me, I feel your pain. I have the same problem with a store full of F12 U tube fixtures. Some work, some don't, all are daisey chained also.

I replaced tubes, used another brand tubes, used energy saving and full wattage, replaced the ballasts, checked ground and voltage all without success.

Out of despairation I take the ballast (electronic), both tubes and the strip that holds the sockets out of the fixture and bring it all back to the shop.

I set it on a wood workbench (remember, not even a ground). Connect the ballast leads to a cord and plug and it works perfectly. Use ANY of the tubes I tried back at job and they now work perfectly too. I put some aluminum foil under the tubes to simulate the grounded fixture sheet metal. I ground it to the ballast case and the receptacle ground. Now they light even faster.

I can't see anything wrong with the sockets or wiring but I replace the sockets just so I can say that EVERYTHING electrical is new.

I bring it back to the store and now it's been working since. Don't ask me why. I'll let you know what happens with the others.

-Hal



[This message has been edited by hbiss (edited 02-19-2007).]

#75190 02/19/07 12:20 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,677
Likes: 9
G
Member
Incandecent lights are AM, Flourecents are FM


Greg Fretwell
#75191 02/19/07 09:41 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 187
HCE727 Offline OP
Member
hbiss, I had that problem with the u-tubes before, but solved it with the help of another electrician. I am not sure what make the tubes were, but the tubes with the meatal brace gave me fits. I changed the tubes with the plastic brace, and never had a problem.


Hank
#75192 02/19/07 10:02 PM
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 41
S
Member
sounds like u have a neutral problem

#75193 02/20/07 03:30 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 886
H
Member
I changed the tubes with the plastic brace, and never had a problem.

Matter of fact the tubes I tried were of both types- metal and plastic.

Neutral problem huh. Don't think so.

NEXT!

-Hal

#75194 02/20/07 03:57 PM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 55
W
Member
Since you gentlemen and ladies in the business have access to some of the manufacturers, have you ever tried to get an answer from one of their design engineers? I know it may be impossible to get through the phone system but one would think the design engineers would know exactly what's happening or what problems they have encountered in their tests. And hopefully they may have some solutions.

I know I have struggled with the poltergeists of fluorescent lighting and would love to better understand its idiosyncrasies.

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