install a doorbell transformer on the same cct. Then wire the secondary of the transformer to a normally open relay, controlling an indicator powered from another cct. if the alarm breaker trips, the relay will shut, and run the indicator weather its another alarm or an LED. Just make sure to find some refined way of accomplishing this.
#72215 - 11/21/0603:05 AMRe: Firex false alarm problem
What about a time delay "silence" circuit of some sort, whereby hitting a "silence" button will drop out the entire circuit for a minute or 2 then reset itself and power the alarms back up, providing of course they are not battery back-up. Could even incorporate an indicator and a smaller much quieter piezo buzzer that will sound during the duration of the "silence" period.
[This message has been edited by Rewired (edited 11-21-2006).]
#72216 - 11/21/0612:22 PMRe: Firex false alarm problem
I don't suppose that replacing the Firex with a better brand might be a quicker, easier, and cheaper solution?
UL, in its' tests, is simply death on false alarms. Even so, some brands have better reputations than others.
I'd also look at the detector placements, and the types of detectors used.
For those who don't know, here's a quick primer on detectors:
They come, most of the time, in either an "ion" or "photo-electric" type. Both must pass the same UL fire testing.
The cheapest ones out there are of the "ion" type. This type is subject to false alarms from blooms of hot air (furnace blowing on it), "burnt dust" (from the heater), and - the worst culprit - hot oil in the air (cooking).
"Photo" types cost a few dollars more, but are usually much less subject to false alarms. They can be fooled by fog (from hot water in the shower), a tiny bug getting in, and clouds of fine dust.
Detectors can also be placed to better avoid false alarms. For example, out of the path of a duct. This is much harder to do now, with the required hard-wiring.