Important Note: PCS34 MUST be plugged into a wall socket incorporating a GFCI.
Is it subject to physical damage by drawers and other goings on below the CT?
If they stop making them will you be able to replace it to cover spacing?
210.52C(5) Receptacle Outlet Location. Receptacle outlets shall be located above, but not more than 500 mm (20 in.) above, the countertop. Receptacle outlets rendered not readily accessible by appliances fastened in place, appliance garages, or appliances occupying dedicated space shall not be considered as these required outlets. Exception: To comply with the conditions specified in (a) or (b), receptacle outlets shall be permitted to be mounted not more than 300 mm (12 in.) below the countertop. Receptacles mounted below a countertop in accordance with this exception shall not be located where the countertop extends more than 150 mm (6 in.) beyond its support base. (a) Construction for the physically impaired. (b) On island and peninsular countertops where the countertop is flat across its entire surface (no backsplashes, dividers, etc.) and there are no means to mount a receptacle within 500 mm (20 in.) above the countertop, such as an overhead cabinet.
Note it says 'receptical outlets' - not extention cords or plug strips....
I use my counter tops. Rule # 1 any object permanently on the countertop MUST be capable of being rigorusly cleaned (ie with water). Hence the name "backsplash" for the wall perpendicular to the counter. How long before syrup (insert your fav. sticky substance here) gets between the rubber flange on top and the counter, that's the last time you are opening it without the "power riser" option.
That doesn't look like much of a lip around the base of it. I can see it being opened during the cooking process and left open for hours on end while all kinds of water and juice and liquid get spread all over that counter...and then flow right down into the receptacle base.
If it forms a tight seal while closed, it's a neat idea for surfaces that have to be occasionally cleaned, but not for surfaces that will get wet while it's open.
There are few areas more frustrating than couters, and their receptacles.
Part of this is because the sparky is left out of the equation until the customer and the cabinet shop have their minds made up. I guarantee that neither of them gives a moment's thought to the electrician.
Part is because the code panel has drifetd away from safety, and into design. It's easy to confuse "ideal" with "OK."
I see no code requirement that every receptacle be "rated" for 20 amps. It is allowed to place 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits.
Something that is considered "ugly" is going to be deleted. I applaud this manufacturer's attempt to come up with something of which the stylist will approve.
I find it rather difficult to drill square holes. One advantage to this device is that you need only the right hole saw to add a receptacle where needed.
Damage to wires within the cabinets is a concern. Cabinet shops seem to delight in making drawers that go all the way back. I am sure that if a penninsula were made that was 5 ft wide, there would be 5 ft deep drawers.
"I see no code requirement that every receptacle be "rated" for 20 amps. It is allowed to place 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits."
True, but where does it say a 9' 15a extention cord count as the required receptical? Now if it were say hard wired as a "Cord drop" it might, but would be need to be rated for 20A. That was my thinking there. IMO pitching this as a suitable replacement for the code required receptical is nothing but trouble, and misleading to designers and architechs who generally have no idea of codes or thier meaning - and those who just dont care.
Mark Heller "Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason