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Water heaters - electric #63736
03/24/06 01:58 AM
03/24/06 01:58 AM
A
aldav53  Offline OP
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 545
Chandler, AZ USA
I serviced a 30a 240v water heater for a home and found on the timer that someone had tied one 120v leg to the line and one 120v to the load on the incoming power, same on the output to the water heater. (has a 240 volt clock). Check voltage at the element before I realized this and it read 240v. I disconnected and bypassed the timer (cutomer didn't want it) still have the 240v of course. The customer said the water heater works a little better but still runs out of hot water too soon. The water heater is brand new and has 2 elements, both reading 12 ohms which is correct. The top element was on but the bottom one wasn't when I left. I know they have thermostatically controlled switches on both elements. So maybe the lower one is not kicking on when its supposed too?


The Golden Rule - "The man with the gold makes the rule"
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Re: Water heaters - electric #63737
03/24/06 02:20 AM
03/24/06 02:20 AM
G
gfretwell  Offline

Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,253
Estero,Fl,usa
Either thermostat could be bad or it could be a broken dip tube.
Let it warm up until the top stat is satisfied and see if it switches to the bottom stat. Then be sure the bottom stat passes the power to the lower element. If the lower element satisfies the stat and you still run out of hot water too fast suspect the broken dip tube. That will allow the incoming cold water to short circuit the heater and go right out the top. Normally the cold water gets introduced into the bottom and tends to stay there.


Greg Fretwell
Re: Water heaters - electric #63738
03/24/06 02:23 AM
03/24/06 02:23 AM
G
gfretwell  Offline

Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,253
Estero,Fl,usa
It could also be "in" and "out" ports swapped but that is getting awful close to "plumbing".


Greg Fretwell
Re: Water heaters - electric #63739
03/24/06 11:48 AM
03/24/06 11:48 AM
L
luckyshadow  Offline
Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 315
Maryland USA
OK Let me play devils advocate here -
Did the customer define " Too Soon"
and How big is the water heater ( in gallons). I have a daughter that thinks a 15 minute HOT shower is pushing it ! Where as I can be in and out in less then 5. These all figure in.

Re: Water heaters - electric #63740
03/24/06 12:03 PM
03/24/06 12:03 PM
A
aldav53  Offline OP
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 545
Chandler, AZ USA
Looked like about a 60 gallon.
By the dip tube are you referring to the heat element? I checked the resistence and it was ok.


The Golden Rule - "The man with the gold makes the rule"
Re: Water heaters - electric #63741
03/24/06 01:47 PM
03/24/06 01:47 PM
G
gfretwell  Offline

Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,253
Estero,Fl,usa
The dip tube is a pipe that runs from the cold water inlet to the bottom of the tank so the water won't mix. The "hot" outlet pulls water from the top. If you get them swapped and the dip tube pulls from bottom of the tank you won't get much hot water out of it.
As an electrician all you really need to prove is that the top stat gets satisfied and the bottom element pulls current after that, until it is satisfied.
The rest is just gee whiz info ... unless you like embarassing the plumbers.


Greg Fretwell
Re: Water heaters - electric #63742
03/24/06 01:55 PM
03/24/06 01:55 PM
C
classicsat  Offline
Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 456
On water heaters that have both fittings on the top, the dip tube is part of the cold fitting, it directs incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank when hot water is drawn off the top.

I'd check the thermostats.

IIRC, the top element heats until the water in the top half of the heater gets to temperature, then the thermostat throws control to the lower thermostat, which heats the lower water until it reaches temperature, then opens.

Re: Water heaters - electric #63743
03/26/06 10:47 AM
03/26/06 10:47 AM
D
deverson  Offline
Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 20
Mosinee, WI USA
Does the water heater have a circulating line? If there is no check valve installed you will have the same problem, the cold water goes to the bottom of the tank and right out the circulating line. they are a great item but require the right parts
Dave

Re: Water heaters - electric #63744
03/26/06 01:10 PM
03/26/06 01:10 PM
H
HLCbuild  Offline
Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 209
Herndon,Va USA
check the plumber's work. The top of the tank has fittings labeled "H" and "C" or hot and cold. Make sure he didn't install it backwards or it will act as gfretwell says and draw very little hot water. Also, check the water temp on the hot side only. See if the t-stat is set to around 120 F. If this is a brand new heater, the dip tube problem has already been corrected. I usually check the elements with an amprobe. The reading is around 18 amps at each element. Only one will work at a time. You can move the t-stat to throw the electric up to the upper element to test it.

Re: Water heaters - electric #63745
03/26/06 04:54 PM
03/26/06 04:54 PM
A
aldav53  Offline OP
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 545
Chandler, AZ USA
Yes, the amp draw was about 18 amps and the elements were 12 ohms each. Did not check the plumbers work. Sounds like that dip tube situation, maybe.


The Golden Rule - "The man with the gold makes the rule"
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