And on top of that, unless the motors speeds matched excactly, there would be nothing to stop that.
That's what I was thinking. Even if it were possible to adjust them to match at the outset, wear and tear would soon takes its toll so that one will run a little faster than the other. I notice that the links to the later instructions do mention adjusting the limit switches.
On the neutrals, that first diagram does suggest that it's a regular DPDT switch and that the neutral is switched, not just terminals being used to link the whites toegether. The white from source is shown on the center terminal, with a jumper across the two other contacts to the motor. If it just needed a neutral for a light, you wouldn't need all that.
I just noticed as well that the sheet indicates either momentary
or maintained contact DPDT switches as being suitable.
As a side note, the switched neutral would not in any way violate a code over in this part of the world, since the switch also simultaneously breaks the ungrounded conductor(s). Such switching is commonplace here for isolators on heaters, fans, etc. It just struck me as being an unnecessary complication for an operational switch in this application.
Speaking of "over here," I notice that they do a 220V version, which from the motor lead colors I assume is intended for the European market (brown and black hots, blue neutral).
[This message has been edited by pauluk (edited 03-03-2006).]
