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#49107 02/27/05 12:35 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 109
L
Member
I agree with BigB an angle grinder with dimond wheel is great for cut in boxes in all types of tile and the wheel lasts longer than the roto zip bit. I have both on my truck. Rod

#49108 02/27/05 01:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,429
L
LK Offline
Member
Celtic,

"I think the customer will not pay $300 for 1 outlet."
___________________________________________

The price they get, around here, is close to, or more for the job described, i am in central New Jersey.

Outlet installation can range, from $180 to $350 in old work, the time to do the job will vary with job conditions.

[This message has been edited by LK (edited 02-27-2005).]

#49109 02/27/05 01:30 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 361
C
Member
Celtic,

"I think the customer will not pay $300 for 1 outlet."
___________________________________________

The price they get, around here, is close to, or more for the job described, i am in central New Jersey.

____________________________________________
LK,
I am in North Jersey...I doubt I could get 3 bills for 1 outlet/circuit.

I have a customer that wants 2 sconces(they supply fixture) installed in their dining room. The switch location is on an adjacent(perpendicular) wall..no access above or below locations, all walls/ceilings closed and painted. I'll be lucky if this guy pays 3 for all that work.


~~ CELTIC ~~
...-= NJ =-...
#49110 02/27/05 01:43 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 361
C
Member
On the RotoZip tool...
I successfully burned out not 1 but 2 of the battery operated models, and over 10 bits cutting in about 10 boxes for cable/tele on wall(s) made with cementboard and sheetrock (about 1").
When I bought the electric model...10 hihats, 2 switch locations, 1 bit! (same job location)
I haven't seen the battery model for sale in some time now - maybe it had a manufac. defect?


~~ CELTIC ~~
...-= NJ =-...
#49111 02/27/05 02:45 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 886
H
Member
I'll be lucky if this guy pays 3 for all that work.

Question is who dictates price- customer or contractor. You know what it should cost and what you have to charge. No such thing as "I'll be lucky if this guy pays...". He either pays or goes somewhere else. Playing lets make a deal is a quick way to go out of business.

-Hal

#49112 02/27/05 03:23 PM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 86
N
Member
Been cutting these holes for over 30 years and I still use the carbide bit with a series of holes around the outline of the box. Then use an old screwdriver or chisel and tap the uncut tile between the holes, remove the tile, cut the wall with a keyhole saw and install the box. I also line my box up with the corner of a tile so I don't have to cut into a second tile. Never had one go bad yet (knock on wood). If the hole ends up a shy small your keyhole saw will scape it larger.
Ron

#49113 02/27/05 04:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,429
L
LK Offline
Member
Ron,

Just as you stated, we were doing it the same way for many years, and without a problem, just got bit on a job for one scratch, he should let them know up front that damage may occur, and put it in writing.

#49114 02/27/05 07:57 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 361
C
Member
I'll be lucky if this guy pays 3 for all that work.

Question is who dictates price- customer or contractor. You know what it should cost and what you have to charge. No such thing as "I'll be lucky if this guy pays...". He either pays or goes somewhere else. Playing lets make a deal is a quick way to go out of business.

-Hal

**********
Hal,
No arguement...maybe I should have said "...this guy will be lucky if I do the job for less than 3 bills pays 3 for all that work." [Linked Image]


~~ CELTIC ~~
...-= NJ =-...
#49115 02/27/05 09:06 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 886
H
Member
we installed one outlet, and there was one little hair line crack

I wouldn't refuse to do it, just make them sign a waiver for the risky stuff.

I would ask wouldn't your insurance cover this but for $1,100 probably not worth the trouble.

-Hal

#49116 02/27/05 10:32 PM
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 84
D
donles Offline OP
Member
Thanks for all the valuable advice. I have a roto-zip and never use it. I prefer a keyhole saw for drywall and a carbide bit I used on cement board did not last long at all.
I'll buy and try the tile-cut blade.
No problem getting paid.

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