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Joined: Jan 2003
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To nail a 3 point bend use the marks scott described. Multiply the height of the obstruction by 2.5 and use that as the measurement from the center mark. Center bend 45 degrees each side of center 22.5 degrees Go to this link http://www.eescodist.com/ugly/chapter20.asp for some better description. [This message has been edited by iwire (edited 01-03-2004).]
Bob Badger Construction & Maintenance Electrician Massachusetts
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,374
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Scott: Yes they are Ideal (my favorite) and they are the 30 degree type, also my favorite.
I never bent many three point saddles, mainly because I hated pulling through them. I would bend a 4-point more often, unless I only had one pipe to go over and the work was exposed.
Ryan Jackson, Salt Lake City
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,527
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To me, Jack Benfield deserves a Nobel prize for such an exceptionally useful and well-thought-out tool.
Do any oldtimers remember the “tuck-a-buck special” and the autographed book of limericks he’d send if you bought $5 worth of his bend-layout kits?
[https://www.electrical-contractor.net/ubb/forum1/html/000023.html] [http://www.benfieldintl.com/aboutjackbenfield.html]
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 91
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if your going to use 45 degrees and (2) 22 degree bends for your saddle the rim notch on the bender is the center of your 45 degree bend ; close to it is the star for back bends dont confuse the two, hope this helps. by far the best bending guide ive ever bought is the electricians guide to conduit bending by richard a. cox 2nd edition. buy it you wont regret it.
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 680
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I keep a Hickey for 3/4 rigid in my truck all the time. Use it in trenches and in dispenser sumps for nearly every new install. Sometimes its the handle that gets placed over the end of the pipe instead of the end one is supposed to use
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Posts: 421
Joined: September 2005
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