ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area puck lights

..I've just installed puck lights in a $35,000 new kitchen...H.O.specs...and they love them...what's all the bally hoo about???

No bally ho.......No bally ho.

I recently installed some "puck" type lights in a friend's kitchen. They were LV and from IKEA, and really cheap, that's why they got them. They each had a back mounting plate, and a white lamp/zip cord to a transformer/plug. A couple of them had 2 lights per cord & transformer/plug. Because the cabinetry had gaps(approx. 1/2" to 1") between each unit, but the trim was even and flush, I ran the cables between the cabinets up to the top surface, where I installed some switched receptacles. I used small white plastic staples to fasten the cord on the bottom of the cabinet til it entered the gap and went up to the receptacles. I'm not sure if fastening the cables for that short distance comes under 400.8 (4), but I think The whole installation was neat and safe. The lights were only 12V, 20W max.

Question though--what is the actual cable type per NEC for "zip cord" or lamp cord?

by johnd24

John what exactly is low volt cable and where are you stubbing it from?

CRW it would proably be one of these types:

All elas-tomer (thermo- plastic) parallel cord SPE-1, SPE-2, SPE-3 or

All plastic parallel cord SPT-1, SPT-2, SPT-3.

Its 14 gauge 2 conductor black low volt cable.Sorta like the cable you get from low volt outdoor lighting kits.
We install a 6"x6" j-box in basement and run all our cabinet homeruns back to it.We install a 300 watt or sized to your job indoor transformer in box and switch leg a 110v. switch.
The cable for the mini track has to be located to come into the back corner of your run of cabinets.the 3/4" lip that is under the cabinet.If i could draw on forums i would."lol".
Its just really a nice product and perfect for this application.The look is awesome.It also comes with a fascia trim piece to help hide track even more if needed.

John from your description if I was the inspector you would fail and have to start over.

part of 411.4

The wire you are using is not a chapter 3 method.

Also are you using 14 AWG with the 300 watt transformer.

14 AWG requires 15 amp overcurrent protection.

The 300 watt transformer provides 25 amps.



[This message has been edited by iwire (edited 01-05-2004).]

Lol.......does that mean that my lighted door bell buttons will also be turned down........cmonnnnnnnnnnn.
Local codes prevail if you want to be that picky.
334.10

[This message has been edited by johnd24 (edited 01-05-2004).]

John no joke most areas will fail what you describe.

If you use NM you are all set, if you use the low volt cable you have a violation.

You do realize that these low voltage systems can start fires right?

Even with NM you will need to run 10 AWG from a 25 AMP supply.

Do you run your 14 AWG for the 120 volt lighting and use a 25 amp breaker?

As for your doorbell light, not covered by article 411. Although if you connect it to a 300 watt transformer it would be a violation.



[This message has been edited by iwire (edited 01-05-2004).]