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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 197
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Sparkync, I have rewired ALOT of very old houses and have never gone about it the way that you are. There has always been a better way in the houses that I have done. Of course the "balloon" walls are by far the easiest but I'm not lucky enough to come across them often. Rewiring the main floor receptacles is straight forward enough that I assume you do not need instruction (let me know otherwise). Second floor receptacles, switches, and lights need to be accessed from the attic. In a large majority of cases, a chase already exists from the basement to the attic (usually where the 3 or 4 inch vent pipe is installed). In the rare case where no such chase is available, look for closets or other inconspicuous areas of the house that line up on the 1st and second floor. In these cases, either run the wire exposed in these "hidden" areas so that they can be easily boxed-off by a trim carpenter or make the minimal sheetrock holes necessary for fishing within those walls. I have ALWAYS found SOME way to get romex to the attic. Once in the attic, I haven't had much problem fishing down to the 2nd floor outlets (maybe I have just been lucky in that reguard). I know I would never be able to use your method of utlizing a 10' extension! The bit would have little chance of staying within the wall cavity! Whatever method you chose, you should let the homeowner know just how much additional labor is involved since the sheetrock was installed first! The bill is going to be huge (in comparison) and the owner needs to know he/she is to blame (not you). I'm not suggesting you be harsh, just matter-of-fact.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,457
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Depot here has the extensions,(54") I saw them today. As for the job, for me it would be time and material or forget it.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,116 Likes: 4
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Steve, Is the 4x4 the main obstacle to going around the room? Did you ever try drilling a hole from 2 sides to form a right angle that meets in the middle? It's not too bad to snake around if you know how to do it. That way you could run all around the room if you had to. (top view of 4x4 looking down) Bill [This message has been edited by Bill Addiss (edited 08-19-2003).]
Bill
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 830
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Triple, I've done many rewires also, and this is the first time I have come across this problem with so many braces. I am just experimenting with the 5 ft. extension. The attic is very large so I'm hoping I can go straight down with no problems. And yes I may have to cut some sheet rock if this doesn't work. I'm not investing anymore labor til I get the extension and see how it works. Electricmanscott: If I hadn't already give the lady a contract, it might would have been better to do time and material, but I have to stand behind my part unless she offers to do more. Once I get started, it may not be so bad. I'll have to look in Home Depot again, I know they got the bits but I didn't know they had extensions that long... Thanks for all the input from everyone..I've learned on jobs like this, to take it one step at a time. It always works out in the end. Thanks a lot... Steve...
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,682 Likes: 3
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Brian, The homemade version, IMHO, of the ITT Holub kit is more robust, and readily reproducable. I did the brazing with nothing more than a MAPP gas torch. A little grinding to lower the high points and it's all done. Like I said, I only brazed up the drive end, but there's nothing preventing doing the same with the chuck end left over from the hole saw extension. The only limitation is that the size of the water pipe couplings requires a larger auger, but then, I rarely use this for only one 14/2. One of the things I like about the near rigid shaft is that I can "feel" the distance between the drywall by rocking the drill back and forth, and with a little experience, be reasonably accurate in centering the burr before I set it in the top plate of a single story wall (drilling up from the basement).
-ElectricAL
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 524
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..I just hope you went in as Time and Material...a job like this can get costly...Trust me!!! AR
.."if it ain't fixed,don't break it...call a Licensed Electrician"
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 33
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Two Words:
"Hidden conditions" there was no possible way to forsee the conditions inside the walls. If you do not include this clause in your contracts you should start. If not break out the sawzall it is not your fault they closed in the walls prematurely. If that is not an option I agree with triples' method and pick yourself up some 50' snakes and cut them to appropriate lengths, fiberglass snakes are nice but nothing beats a steel snake. Since they are putting up baseboard make all your holes behind that. Hire a temp laborer for all your cuts and cleanup you can't beat $20 per hr and you can tend to more important issues.
Good Luck
Jeff Rose
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 308
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I have used the long 3/4 bit once and that was enough. After the third stud i went right into a water pipe. So no more long bits for me. I open up walls to see whats is behind it then drill through any structural membrane.
Edward.
Thanks Edward
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,429
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Steve, We just completed a job on a house like the one you described. We put a sub panel on the second floor, and wired down from the attic. The first floor we wired up from the basement. The house had a mix of wall board and lath and plaster, deadman and cross supports all over the frame, none of these were in our way. The only rough part was removing floor boards from the attic, we had to be careful not to crack the ceiling below. We reinstalled the floor with screws, not nails, it worked well. We did not make our 8 % mark-up, because we were the low bidder, $9700, plus permit fees. After we completed the job the owner treated us to a nice dinner, and showed us the other bids. $12,000 and 14,500. I think the next time we will try T&M. Steve try the up and down method, it went well except the attic floor.
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Posts: 57
Joined: August 2003
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