I may get bashed for this and understandably so. Is there any "tricks of the trade" for testing the dish cables without the specialize testing equipment? I only ask because the system in at a remote site and rather expensive to send a specialist out there if it turns out to be simple fix. At the moment, I'm not sure what the issue even is
Last edited by sparkyinak; 05/06/1409:16 PM.
"Live Awesome!" - Kevin Carosa
Study Guides for VDV / Structured Cabling Installers
Depending on how much the service call is and how much a new cable would cost; I would run a new cable on the ground and through a window to see if it works. If so, you've found the problem. If not, you've saved the embarrassment of paying for a service call only to find out that it was a bad cable.
I just had a problem with a 75 ohm coax (or something at the end). I started by checking for a short (shield to stinger) with both ends disconnected. Then I plugged a terminator on one end and looked for the ~75 ohms at the other. As a sanity check I plugged it into the AV video jack of the TV with an RCA adapter and hooked a camera to the other end. That proved the cable was good to me.
My problem turned out to be on the driven end, verified by dragging a monitor there and hooking it up with another short cable.
Well, you could ask someone to go out to the LNB with a DMM. They should read roughly 12 or 18VDC on the RG-6, depending on the polarization. Both voltages are OK to power the Low Noise Block down converter and the voltage difference is sensed to select CW or CCW polarization. There's obviously a ton more frequency division multiplexed stuff on that cable, but the DC is easy to look for. If they see the DC there, they might have a 2nd LNB connector they can try. I think most of the dishes have dual feeds. I imagine you already checked: Menu/Setup/System Setup/Satellite/View Signal Strength, for each transponder. Joe