The touch plate system uses ratcheting relays, that is to say that the same signal comes from the switch for the both on & off operations. It only requires 2 wires to control the relay. (additional wires are needed in case of a pilot light on the switch to tell when it's in the on position). The low voltage pigtails on the relay are brown & red, if I remember correctly.
GE (and Sierra) use separate signals to the relays for on & off, so requires 3 wires run to the switch. The low voltage pigtails on the relay are black, red, & blue. Blue is the common conductor, red is the on signal, and black is the off signal.
Waste of wire, too. Every light needed a dedicated line up from the basement. There was a gutted fusepanel with 2 1x 10's screwed across it to housesome of them. Houses in my area are baloon framed, long and skinny, therefoe 100' runs were between the box and the back bedroom lights.
Actually one can simplify wiring with Touch-Plate...
That doesn't mean that the boys did so.
Touch-Plate permits you to control every light remotely, over and over and over around the house.
My sister bought a 1962 home loaded with Touch-Plate. A prior owner ( amateur ) was in way over his head and compounded his troubles. He kept stacking up loads on the few relays that he'd not yet burnt out.
Touch-Plate's one weakness is 'hung' low voltage switches. You can only get about 35 years out of them. Then you need to buy replacements.
By using two control cabinets her house does not have endless runs of full voltage switch legs.
Beyond that, if so desired, one can shift the relays at will to 4-sq boxes all over the space and have them triggered by shorter runs. It all gets down to how the house is designed. In my sisters' house routing was highly constrained because dramatic tongue and groove lumber formed the roof. Fortunately, a massive crawl space below permitted alternate routes.
In the present day, wireless systems are eating its lunch.