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#195969 09/02/10 01:27 AM
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13
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Paxman Offline OP
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I have been asked to wire a septic grinder pump for a new house. I am looking at two cords coming out - one with 6 wires # 12 - (black, red, white, orange, blue and green)and the other cord has just 2 wires # 14. The pump is a 2HP, 230V. There is .9 ohms resistance between white and blue and white and black. There is a 2.2 ohms reading between black and blue. All other readings are OL or in the megohms. My take is that the cord with two small wires is a moisture sensor (?) and .9 ohms between white and blue would indicate L1 and L2 (?) but what about the other 3 wires red, black and red (obviously green would be for GND). Tank is filled up with rain water and there is no paperwork. Can somebody help me with this? Tx

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 265
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Is it a reversing motor? Does it have any kind of controller with it? I put in a comercial grinder that would automatically reverse if it bound up on something it could not chew.


Jimmy

Life is tough, Life is tougher when you are stupid
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 939
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Member
Originally Posted by Paxman
I have been asked to wire a septic grinder pump for a new house. I am looking at two cords coming out - one with 6 wires # 12 - (black, red, white, orange, blue and green)and the other cord has just 2 wires # 14. The pump is a 2HP, 230V. There is .9 ohms resistance between white and blue and white and black. There is a 2.2 ohms reading between black and blue. All other readings are OL or in the megohms. My take is that the cord with two small wires is a moisture sensor (?) and .9 ohms between white and blue would indicate L1 and L2 (?) but what about the other 3 wires red, black and red (obviously green would be for GND). Tank is filled up with rain water and there is no paperwork. Can somebody help me with this? Tx


I am thinking if I did read your numbers right you may have revering motour there so the lower reading is the starting winding while the 2.2 ohms may be a running winding which it is common for single phase motour.

If this pump motour is brand new and clean you should able get the manufacter nameplate info off from it.

And it should have matching control box for it.

Merci.
Marc


Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)

Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,721
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Paxman;

Welcome to ECN!

With a little back-and-forth posting, I believe we may get this issue resolved.

First off, you will need to be able to access the Motor, so as to trace its Circuitry correctly.
If the Motor is remotely located, you will need to access it directly.

This Motor should be a Capacitor-Start type, as it is 2.0 Horsepower.
There will be a Single "Pop-Up" enclosure on top of the Motor, which is the housing for the Start Capacitor.
If the Motor is a "Dual-Capacitor" type (Capacitor-Start / Capacitor-Run), there will be Two of the pre mentioned "Pop-Ups" on top of the Motor Frame.
If there are no "Pop-Ups", please indicate this in your reply.

In addition, if you could post the Motor's Nameplate Data, this would be helpful.
Looking for any hints!

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

1:

First test to perform is to identify the Start Circuit.
This is done by disconnecting the Capacitor's leads, and tracing the Start Winding's Circuitry.

With the Capacitor leads disconnected, trace continuity between one of the Cap leads, and one of the wires in the Cord (the cord with Six lead wires).
When you find any continuity, mark down the lead colors.
Do the same with the remaining Cap lead.

Now you have the Start Circuit identified. The Start Circuit is what determines the Rotor's direction, and is what will be connected "opposite" to reverse direction.

BTW, the colors for the Start Circuit should be Black & Red (most NEMA Motors apply, however some Definite Purpose Motors are different.)

......................................
......................................

2:

Determine the Run Winding leads.

Check for continuity between these following lead combinations:

  • Blue and White,
  • Blue and Orange,
  • White and Orange.


There _Should_ be continuity between all three combos above.
If so, the Orange lead _Should_ be the Center Tap lead from the Main (Run) Winding, which feeds the Start Circuit; and the Blue + White leads _Should_ be the Main Winding's L1 & L2 leads.

This is where things get tricky!
If the Center Tap is NOT the Orange lead, connecting the Motor's Blue & White leads to a 230V Circuit will eventually fry the Main Winding, while Impeding the Start Circuit.
This is due to 1/2 of the Main Winding being connected to 230V.

Please keep this in mind when determining the connections of the Main Winding!!!

......................................
......................................

3:

Here are a few Schematics of the Motor connections.

Attached Images
SMPMTR_FORWARD.gif SMPMTR_REVERSE.gif

Scott " 35 " Thompson
Just Say NO To Green Eggs And Ham!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13
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Paxman Offline OP
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OK, I was able to pull out the pump and see the name plate - 2HP, 230V, 17.2A.It is a Zoller 840 pump and I found out on the internet that was supposed to come with its own control panel but the owner did not know that. The start and run capacitors, relay, alarm, etc are all inside that panel. It is designed to reverse every time it starts to prolong the life on the blades. Owner will buy another pump since a standard control panel is already installed and wired - all it needed was to hook up the floats and feed the pump. This is all cleared now. I do appreicate everybody weighing in to help with a lot of good information.


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