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Joined: Mar 2008
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added my new DC-AC inverter to the tractor system, now have outlets on my reactor for 12VDC and 120VAC, and switches for hood lights These are mostly up for doug and rollie left outlet is the 120, and the right is the 12V switches control the 12V lights on the hood ![[Linked Image from i245.photobucket.com]](https://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg78/pc-tech-CF/Tractor/photo-6.jpg) bigger view ![[Linked Image from i245.photobucket.com]](https://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg78/pc-tech-CF/Tractor/photo3-6.jpg) where the inverter goes when its in use.... ![[Linked Image from i245.photobucket.com]](https://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg78/pc-tech-CF/Tractor/photo2-6.jpg) here's the most recent video of the tractor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_kCvMwaHYc
-Joe “then we'll glue em' then screw em'” -Tom Silva TOH
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Joined: Jul 2004
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OK I'm scared, is that your point? What is the 5-15 plug for? Didn't you have any KO seals.
OK I know. I am not supposed to look at electrical installations on vehicles. Sorry, nevermnd
Looks great
Greg Fretwell
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Joined: Mar 2008
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lol, not gonna bother with knock out seals, i plan adding something there later on...
and what is a 5-15plug?
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Joined: Dec 2000
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Isn't the switch on the right marked "for use on AC only"?
A NEMA 5-15 plug is a 15Amp 125 Volt plug
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Joined: Mar 2008
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both switches are marked for ac only, but they work fine on DC
and the 15 amp plug on the left goes to the yellow plug by the seat for the inverter, and the 2 wire outlet is for my 12 V accessories like fan, flashing light on a tripod, and other things
-Joe “then we'll glue em' then screw em'” -Tom Silva TOH
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Joined: Feb 2008
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Joined: Mar 2008
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you have no idea... if i take the plow off, it does wheelies...
-Joe “then we'll glue em' then screw em'” -Tom Silva TOH
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Joined: Jul 2004
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Joe, those switches will work fine on DC until you try to open a circuit with 10 or 15 amps of inductive load. Then it will weld shut because there is no zero crossing to put out the fire. You can mitigate that with a diode across it.
I hope you don't mean the yellow plug is the output of the inverter. I am still concerned with mixing 12 volt and 120 volt receptacles using the same type of plug. I would use "lighter plugs" for all of my 12 volt stuff. They do make good ones and you can get a lighter socket in a 3/4" KO as I recall.
Greg Fretwell
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Joined: Mar 2008
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Joe, those switches will work fine on DC until you try to open a circuit with 10 or 15 amps of inductive load. Then it will weld shut because there is no zero crossing to put out the fire. You can mitigate that with a diode across it.
I hope you don't mean the yellow plug is the output of the inverter. I am still concerned with mixing 12 volt and 120 volt receptacles using the same type of plug. I would use "lighter plugs" for all of my 12 volt stuff. They do make good ones and you can get a lighter socket in a 3/4" KO as I recall. I think I have some older switches lying around that are made for DC as well, I might go check my boxes of junk to find them. as for the plugs, I do have a few lighter ones, but all of my 12V accessories are wired with 2 wire cords and plugs, but since I am the only one using them, I put a small padlock on the prongs where the holes are so no one else can plug it in. when I get home later, I will put the inverter on to show you how it is set up, the invertet plugs into the lighter port by the battery, and the yellow cord cap plugs into the inverter (there is no suicide cord)
-Joe “then we'll glue em' then screw em'” -Tom Silva TOH
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Joined: Apr 2005
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That setup worries me a lot too - it's ok saying you "padlock" the plugs, but some unknowing person can still break/saw of the lock or even change the plug thinking the appliance is 120volt. I use a 12volt system here too, but I use the old BS546 (round pin plugs rated 5Amp) as virtually no one has these in homes any more. I keep all 230volt appliances on BS1363 as it should be.
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