Does anyone know of a diagram that details the required wiring for a fire suppression system over commercial kitchen equipment? I know it breaks through the contacts at the suppression canister, and is suppose to shut down certain equipment under the hood, but I'm not completely sure what all it shuts down and what remains on. I think the lights are suppose to stay on in the hood, so they can see. I have a job that I was called on today :)and had to do some other troubleshooting that pertains to their suppression system. The building has been a restuarant in the past, and another tenant is coming in and fixing up and suppose to get inspection Monday. Trouble is that I think their suppression system wiring has been tampered with. There is a contactor over their freezer, but the wiring has been "rigged". They're suppose to call me tomorrow when the suppression installer gets there. Any input that might help me to make "heads or tails" of what they have there? Thanks for the help, and by the way, I got 2 calls in one day!!! I was trusting the "drought" would end And Bill I haven't forgot about my picture uploads, just hadn't had time to try it again. Thanks Steve...
NFPA-17A wet Chem systems. 22.214.171.124 In short, anything under the hood needs to shut down, Gas and electric.Gas must be shut down BEFORE the agent enters the hood, this can be electric or mechanical shut down. All shut downs must require MANUAL resets after discharge.
The hood exhaust is not required to shut down. However NFPA 96 (As we have visited before,Reno ) also addresses the EF issue. In 17A I saw no reference to '96'.
Last edited by leland; 01/10/0901:09 AM.
Re: Fire suppression system wiring
#183460 01/10/0901:23 AM01/10/0901:23 AM
Call the fire suppression company and ask them to print out the wiring diagrams for that system. Your electric fuel shut-offs may include an electric gas valve and electric appliances. All heat producing appliances are to shut off when the fire system trips. This includes toasters and coffee pots under the hood. I ask for all receptacles to be shut down or un-wired at both ends. The exhaust fans may shut off or stay on, usually we have them stay on. Intake air is to shut off. Hood lights may be left on or be required to shut off, a local option. And as already mentioned, electric gas appliances are required to have a manual reset. The reason is that a power bump will shut off hte electric gas valve, and when the power comes on, the gas valve opens. That can be bad. A manual reset relay will need to be reset befor the gas valve will open and allow gas to flow.
[quote=fireguy]Call the fire suppression company and ask them to print out the wiring diagrams for that system.) ..And you'll read.. "by others" (big ole company I mite add, ). As they only show their contacts for you to hook up to.
:Intake air is to shut off.: NFPA 96. 8.3.2
:Hood lights may be left on or be required to shut off, a local option.:
NFPA 17-A 126.96.36.199 "On activation of any cooking fire extinguishing system,ALL sources of fuel and electric power that PRODUCE heat to all equipment protected by the system SHALL be shut down."
One could read this as: 1) lights are electric. 2) they produce heat, directly or indirectly, to the equipment. 3) If broken,the electricity could become a source of fuel.