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Joined: Oct 2000
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Not long ago, I found the parts house had supplied the wrong cover for a receptacle I was installing- so I made one, by simply punching a hole in a "blank" cover.
Comments? Anyone see a violation here?
- renosteinke
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Joined: Jan 2003
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UL Listed? I think not. Would (have) I have done the same thing in your situation? Sure, well probably depending on the customer and the aesthetics. Bob
Bob Badger Construction & Maintenance Electrician Massachusetts
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Doesn't MC have to be strapped within 6" of the box?
I forget...
Dnk.....
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Joined: Aug 2002
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Why is the BX clamp fastened to the FACE of the stud instead of the sides?
Doesn't that subject the cable to more damage?
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Joined: Sep 2001
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Is that an NM connector into the box? Why the locknut on the outside of the box? 1/2" connector into 3/4" KO?
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Holy cow, guys, I am so busted!
330.30B give me 12" from the box to the first support.
The cable is mounted on the edge of the stud, as it makes an immediate bend to a light. What you can't tell from the pic is that this is in a glorified dog-house used to house a circulating pump for an outdoor pond. The total size of this structure is just a little larger than one of those monster does-everything cordless tool kits :-)
As for the locknut...yup, some more "field engineering." As usual, the parts house not only failed to supply the 'industrial cover' for this 4-11 box, they gave me one with only large knock-outs. Not having the appropriate reducing washers with me, I used a reducing bushing instead, with a locknut both inside and outside the box. The KO's were 1", incidentally.
As for the "listing" issue....to play devils' advocate here....don't they make "blank" covers with KO's punched in them? So why should I not be able to drill a hole? And what is the KO for but to mount things?
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The "field engineered" RE Bushing with locknuts is, IMO, a better connection than RE washers. I employ this little trick regularly when connecting motors, which often come with holes (not KO's) that are larger than the size of the conduit I'm using. Was there a reason for using a 4-11/16 Box rather than a 4"? (The covers are so much easier to get!)
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Joined: Jul 2002
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John, I actually reckon that that cover looks pretty flash!. Good one.
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Ah, praise...I love it..Thanks Trumpy!
I chose to use the 4-11, rather than a 4-square, for the extra room and -ironically- larger knockouts on the back. Coming into this box from the back is the power supply, in 1" PVC. Pipe a little larger makes the pull so much easier! There is also the matter of that other circuit feeding the light, and a convenience receptacle (not shown) on the outside of the shed.
I don't use this type of receptacle all that often...when I asked for it (by volt and amp rating) I imagined a much larger device- like you'ld see for a dryer.
Those "in the trade" know the drill all too well.....you make up your list, call it in, drive across town, wait, and wait, throw the box they give you on the truck, and race back to the job, maybe grabbing a sandwich for 'lunch on the go.' Then, you fish out the parts as you ned them- often not getting to the bottom of the box for a couple hours. By then, you're not about to spend another two hours getting a $2 part if you can avoid it- and you can't carry everything with you! So you get creative- only to have some chair-borne commando say "you could have used the right part- see, here it is in the catalog!" Grrrr.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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Been there, done that, used the t-shirt in lieu of a dust rag because I forgot to buy one Seriously, I think we've all done that. I often end up having to do similar with master phone jacks (which in the UK contain the ringing capacitor). I end up getting masters instead of the slaves without a capacitor because they look the same to the people in the warehouse. 2 seconds with a pair of cutters on the capacitor sorts it out
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