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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 13
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If I have a choice,I prefer most inside wall boxes plastic and exposed boxes metal.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 449
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When I did residential, I was a big fan of the Carlon 21 cuin pvc box. Some GCs who did only upscale custom homes specified metal boxes only. Cost on these homes wasn't a factor so I liked to use the Raco 3-1/2" deep metal box with the stud bracket on the side. I can't remember the number but they were gangable. In commercial, I preferred the raco 232 4x4x2-1/8 with the stud bracket and use mud rings. EMT when ever possible. If I build myself another house it will all be in EMT.
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 60
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For residential Plastic boxes carlon or thomas and Betts whatever is available, both have a good selection and variety of box types. All wiring romex, 14/2 and 14/3 on gen purpose and 12/2 and greater when needed. Competition is very tight in the residential market here, that this is the trade practice. Except in NYC where romexis illegal, bx is still used, but most contractors are starting to use MC.
Commercial is a different ball of wax. MC and metal when called for. Emt when called for. NYC fire alarms call for threaded aluminum and metal boxes, also special BSA wire in some instances. NYC housing or projects call for threaded rigid in public halls, tank rooms, emt can be used in motor rooms and other such spaces. Outside they spec for pvc coated with 10awg thhn for 15 amp lighting circuits.
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 218
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Depnds on the job. For new work I use metal and drive sheetrock screws with a cordless drill. On old work I like Allied molded boxes because I can trim the wing when dealing with plaster and lath walls. I never cared much for the clips that I used to use on the metal boxes, just worried me the they came so close to the receptacle screws. Also have bad memories from working where we used MC and metal boxes with clips and upon powering the circuit having a brief 4 of July only to discover the receptacle had grounded on the clip because it bowed out too much.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54
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I prefer using plastic boxes when ever possible, even in old work the plastic pop-in boxes work well. You don't wory as much with grounding. Far as the metal boxes work well on surface area's and mostly commerical work. Getting to the receptacle's up or down, I unlike most of my peers prefer down. Conduit's I again like plastic over Emt, Rigid. I reckon everyone has his or her way of utilizing there work ethics as with material being used ect. It's great that we can enter change our ideas and work practics to keep all of us up informed of the many ways that are available to us. Wayne
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236 Likes: 1
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Ah yes, the Carlon Zip boxes are great! I mastered the old F-strips, but I hate to use 'em for the same reasons.
BTW... In installing ceiling boxes, round cut-in Carlon Zip type in drywall, use a 4" hole saw and run it backwards to save the teeth...Works like a charm!
[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 05-04-2001).]
-Virgil Residential/Commercial Inspector 5 Star Inspections Member IAEI
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 16
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About the metal, plastic boxes, I like to use the Slater Gray boxes with Quick Clik 6/32 screw threads. I like to use metal round boxes for all my ceiling fixtures and smoke detectors. The gem boxes, I like the 2 -3/4" deep, for most single ended romex runs, it gives you a little more room. It's allways good to go one size larger with the plastic nail on's. Instead of 18 cu. go with the 20 or 22cu. Not that much more in price. Have a great and safe weekend. THOMPSON ELECTRIC
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,116 Likes: 4
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STEVE, Great to have a fellow LI'der (Long Islander). Glad to see you could make it. Bill
Bill
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 60
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Originally posted by Bill Addiss: STEVE,
Great to have a fellow LI'der (Long Islander). Glad to see you could make it.
BillQuestion for Long Islanders: I romex legal in all parts of Long Island? I have heard that some municipalities do not allow it's use.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,392
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Ok, i'd like to ask advise per application. I have to rough a post & beam, the skelton is placed, 1/2"sheet rock next(seen in interior), 1/2" aspinite next( some call it pressboard), then 1 1/2" hard insulation, the 1 1/2" insulation again before sheating/siding. The builder would like me to only box out through the first 1 1/2" layer, as to not break into the 2nd. So that leaves me with 2 1/2" from finish surface back. T370-16(a) says 12.5 cu, 5-12's for a device box any ideas or suggestions ???? [This message has been edited by sparky (edited 05-06-2001).]
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Posts: 99
Joined: August 2003
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