OK We put in some can lighting and used some roofing nails to secure them to joist.They have the little tabs that knock in that help hold them in place a co-worker says these are sufficient to mount but I disagreed and also use screws or nails in this case I used roofing nails along with the metal tabs that nail into the wood.Now another guy says this is not ok because they are for roofing and can`t be used as can or fixture supports. Well does he have a point? Kinda figure he`s right but those cans are not falling down besides the halo brand use a similar nail?
The little tabs are sufficient only to hold the thing in place while you use a real fastener.
You're nailing into the side of s beam. It is quite possible for an ordinary nail to pass all the way through- meaning there is length you don't use. The fixtures also have little weight, which means you don't need a whole lot of thickness either.
While I prefer to use screws - much easier if you need to re-position the can a bit- I see nothing wrong with using roofing nails.
#100251 - 11/06/0612:18 PMRe: can lights (fasteners)
We used 3/4" pan head #10 sheet metal screws for most things like this. You can coax them into a metal stud through drywall and they are not coming out of wood. Most of our low voltage stuff was on 3/4 plywood. You do need a drill/driver for the metal studs but I assume most guys use them anyway. I used to buy them by the 5lb box at the fastener store and split them up with the guys. They provine a lot better bearing surface than the bugle head deck/drywall screw.
#100255 - 11/10/0611:54 PMRe: can lights (fasteners)
I've always understood that the drive in straps (punched sections of the rails/plates) were for temporary use until the final location was determined; then it was intended to be secured by nails or screws. That's why there are multiple holes in those plates.
The only ones that don;t require additional fastening are the cans (Juno?) with the nail pre-attached at the factory.
IMHO I don't care for roofing nails. While they're handy (big head, short length), I had an issue with them once. I ran out of 1 1/4" DW screws, so I grabbed a few roofing nails from a can on the site.
I'll be damned if more than half of the heads didn't pop off before we were done at the site two weeks later.
As I went through re-fastening the boxes I'd mounted, I wound up swearing off roofing nails as a result.
That said, I don't think it's a Code violation per se, as the Code doesn't specify fastening means, it only specifies the distance the fastener can protrude into the interior of the box IIRC.
Of course, there's the inspector who failed a buddy for not using wood screws to mount the various boxes throughout the job (he used 1 1/4" DW's); the inspector fell back on "I'm the AHJ" when he couldn't produce an actual Code ref.
ETA - It seems the Halo lights use a stronger metal for their nails than the stuff used for roofing nails.
[This message has been edited by DougW (edited 11-10-2006).]
#100256 - 11/15/0608:22 PMRe: can lights (fasteners)
Roofing nails not a problem though i prefer to use drywall screws. Like the other if you have to reposition the can after mounting with nails its a heck of a time to reposition them. No problem at all if you want to use nails but I wouldnt.
#100257 - 11/15/0610:12 PMRe: can lights (fasteners)