Unlike an orbital sander, I did not perceive any vibrations in the handle while using the tool. You really do have to use one to appreciate just how different it is.
I bought mine for a job that involved running pipe through 4" LVL's, some spaced less than 14" apart (A note of caution here: there are VERY specific rules for drilling LVL's!) Thee were also I-joists present.
I also, at that time, bought a set of Irwin "Speedbor MAX" bits. I bought these, simply because that is what was used when I saw the tool demonstrated. These bits are a cross between spade, auger, and self-feeding designs, and have the 1/4" hex shank. Once you got the screw tip started, all you needed to do was keep the trigger presses - the bit did the rest .... until 'punch through,' where some pushing was needed (of course).
These bits are NOT designed to cut nails; a similar bit is advertised by Lenox that does make such a claim. In my experience, you very quickly became aware when the bit struck a nail - it stopped progressing, and the sound was different. Upon examination, the damage seemed concentrated on the scoring point at the outer edge of one of the flutes. This point is quite important at 'punch through,' so damage there means more pressure is needed, and the exit is not as neat.
Overall life of the bits was somewhat more than that of a spade bit. There were absolutely no problems with the shanks being bent - even with the largest (1 1/4") bit. That's a big hole for a little shank! Holes bored were extremely clean. As for knots ... as long as the pilot screw can grab, the drill powered through without problem.
This, of course, brings up another issue: bits. As nice as either the bit or the tool was, they are an awesome combination.
When used driving screws, there was a real improvement; the bit did not seem to spin out of the screw nearly as readily. You were much more able to control just how deep you sank the screw. Still ... if you have the choice, you might consider Robertson, rather then Phillips!
