Virgil:
I cannot cite a code article covering this either (although I feel pretty sure that one exists somewhere). I do know that manufacturers of these dimmers recommend them for use only with permanently fixed non-inductive (excluding such things as electric motors and lamps using transformers in a power supply)loads. These dimmers cannot take the strain imposed by "hot patching" (which, in stage lighting parlance, refers to plugging a load circuit into a dimmer while the dimmer is hot...common in theatrical work, where dimmers are built heavier to accommodate this). If the dimmer were of sufficient ampacity to handle the power tool when it "loads down", and the dimmer were turned all the way up full, probably nothing would happen. If, however, the dimmer was undersized, or not in the full-up position, there can be serious damage to both dimmer and tool.

I experienced this first-hand not too long ago when a "carpenter" tried to plug a saw into a light fixture (using one of those screw in adaptors...even though a wall plug was nearby...go figure) controlled by a common 600 watt wall dimmer. Pretty spectacular! [Linked Image]

Mike (mamills)

BTW: I forgot to ask...is the black on the red wire electrical tape to cover up damaged insulation, or is it a burned spot? Pretty crummy installation of the box in the baseboard, too.

[This message has been edited by mamills (edited 06-07-2002).]

[This message has been edited by mamills (edited 06-07-2002).]