Virgil:
I cannot cite a code article covering this either (although I feel pretty sure that one exists somewhere). I do know that manufacturers of these dimmers recommend them for use only with permanently fixed non-inductive (excluding such things as electric motors and lamps using transformers in a power supply)loads. These dimmers cannot take the strain imposed by "hot patching" (which, in stage lighting parlance, refers to plugging a load circuit into a dimmer while the dimmer is hot...common in theatrical work, where dimmers are built heavier to accommodate this). If the dimmer were of sufficient ampacity to handle the power tool when it "loads down", and the dimmer were turned all the way up full, probably nothing would happen. If, however, the dimmer was undersized, or not in the full-up position, there can be serious damage to both dimmer and tool.

I experienced this first-hand not too long ago when a "carpenter" tried to plug a saw into a light fixture (using one of those screw in adaptors...even though a wall plug was nearby...go figure) controlled by a common 600 watt wall dimmer. Pretty spectacular!

Mike (mamills)

BTW: I forgot to ask...is the black on the red wire electrical tape to cover up damaged insulation, or is it a burned spot? Pretty crummy installation of the box in the baseboard, too.

[This message has been edited by mamills (edited 06-07-2002).]

[This message has been edited by mamills (edited 06-07-2002).]

Uh, hint: There are two 12-3-G cables going into this box. There is only one wirenut.

The tape is doing much more than just covering scraped insulation...

Virgil:
I wonder if they went to the trouble of stripping the insulation off the wires before twisting them together?

Wasn't there a thread about that some time ago?

Mike (mamills)

Look at 404.14(E). This is a new rule in the '02 code, but the UL listing info has always said that you can't connect a dimmer to a receptacle, so even if you are using an older code, it would be a violation of 110.3(B)
Don

So far, I've made note of 314.16, 110.14(B), 250.146, 250.148, 110.12, 404.14(E) (thanks, Don...) 314.20, 404.4, 312.1(A), and not shown in these pics, 210.8(A)(6) and 210.12.

Whew!

Any more?

BTW>>>

I've won a bid for $10.2K for one of these houses (#9, different section, about 2800 sq ft plus unfinished basement and porches, spec'd for metal boxes, lots of recessed cans, etc.). Joe M. and I start Monday on the rough-in and service.

In the meantime... we have to fix to atleast some extent the problems that I outline in my report (after the back charge procedures have been confirmed) hang fixtures that come in on #6 as well as Joe's landscape lights and traffic gates to do... Not to mention every other customer that wants this or that, most of them loyal from the beginning. I don't want to sound like I'm complaining... so please take this as "good news" for I've never been this covered up in work in my life! And I have the folks here at ECN to thank for making me the professional that I am, so that I can land gigs like this.

It's about time.

Wish me luck!

-Virgil

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 06-11-2002).]

These say 'cielings', may not be kosher for a wall hung sconce....


tradesmen get by on luck & skill, the latter serves you best in the long run.
sooooo...
good luck learning to juggle!

Hmmm... I was hoping more along the lines of galvanized extensions like an octagonal, but for the 3" size of the ring. Can I use 3" octagonal (or round) exetensions? (Listing concerns here...) there's nearly 2-1/2" of wood I have to protect, and I can't get to the 4x4 screws.

On the dimmer issue to a receptacle, see the UL White Book "Dimmers, General Use Switch (EOYX)"

In the 2000 White Book, it is on page 24.

The 2001 White Book is at the Building Department. I'm guessing it would be about page 28.

See "Dimmers" in the Index.

Go by NEC 110-3(b).

[This message has been edited by Gwz (edited 06-09-2002).]

404.14(E) was what I was looking for, but the more ammo the better!

Thanks!

-Virgil

Looking at the picture of the receptacle and I still say those grounding conductors are a violation of 300-14 of the 99 NEC "length of conductors. This article does not exclude grounding wires from meeting the conductor length, but everyone seems to allow this. When we talk about dimmer switches and the owner or even electricians install one, it is not easy to hook up the grounding wire and often is just not done. When the wires are that short they often get disconnected and it is to hard to get them hooked back up so they are left unconnected and eliminates the grounding on the rest of the circuit. I get contractors from back east that move out here to Arizona and when I enforce the grounding wire to comply with 300-14 they look at me like they never heard of such a thing. I haven't seen any mention of this. Let's check this out and enforce it.

Cactus,

Even though I'd had forgotten and overlooked 300.14 when making the list above, when I was working on these, the conductor length was my first gripe.
Very hard to work with and a gross violation of conductor length. Not only the EGC, but the Hots are very short too (where spliced).

Joe and myself were trained to have " 6" of free conductor" outside of the box, which was clarified in the '99 Code to be a little more reasonable. We were folding in darn near a foot per conductor on 3-1/2" deep boxes!!

I'll add 300.14 to the list.

Thanks!

-Virgil

The following photos illustrate the lack of GFCI protection in the kitchen.

Virgil:
What is pic. no. 4 (from the top)?

Also, how are the circuits divided between the two panels (i.e. first floor/second floor, east wing/west wing, etc.? Thanks for any info.

Mike (mamills)

[This message has been edited by mamills (edited 07-13-2002).]

The fourth new picture down is really there just to point out the lack of GFCI protection on the kitchen circuits. What you see is a TV mounted to the cabinet, and some Romex dropping down which was later removed. They had to move the TV anyway...

Admittedly, it's not a very good picture.

The circuits are placed seemingly randomly in the panels, there's kitchen circuits in both panels, etc. very little in the way of a panel schedule.

Joe had installed GFCI CB's a few days ago and he discovered that the N-G bonds were still intact in the panels with four wire feeders coming from a disconnect...
<Mr. Rodgers>Can we say "parallel"? Good! I knew you could!</Mr. Rodgers>



[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 07-13-2002).]

Webmaster,

Is there a reason that I can not print this thread?

We still need to wait on the Webmaster's response, but you have my permission to print it.

Go to this thread if you haven't seen the latest developments of this:
https://www.electrical-contractor.net/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001392.html

And this link is to an HTML version of the report:
http://users.stargate.net/~vkkelly/lot-6.html

I'd like to be certain that you have good intentions with the information, but in my opinion, the 'net is a free society, and if I'm dumb enough to post it, you can do what you wish with it...

Let's wait for the webmaster's response, though....

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 07-14-2002).]