I have head the "lose connection" therory too, from an old boss of mine, but I have never bought in to it. I see it as more cause, than effect. The effect is most likely that the wiring to the lamp-holder will be over-heated, but not the cause, IMO.
What type of corrosion is it? Salt crystal type(water/condensate),rust (water), blackend copper type (heat/dis-simualr metal), white Al powder type (all/any of the above)?
Notice any spiders? Some make a fine web/egg sac that looks like corosion, and like to live in fixture bases. Sounds crazy, until you see them in there!
You say it has drain holes. But will it collect condensation before dew point in the morning and be wet?
Warning, avoid flamable or speading oils like WD-40, unless you like fire....
And anything like NoAlOx will dry up into hard clay.
I go for a 2 part solution: (And a little mechanical abrasion edge of flat head.)
1.)Contact cleaner to get the stuff out. 2.)Then a silicone based spray lube.
I get both cans right next to eachother at the supply house, and often do the prosses in reverse because the cans are from the same company and look the same.
Mark Heller "Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
Re: Incandescent bulb base corrosion#52801 06/07/0502:10 PM06/07/0502:10 PM
Look at this problem logically. Practically sealed lamp housing, with a drain hole at bottom. Lamp on: air in enclosed space heats and expands, escapes through the hole. Lamp off: air inside cools down and shrinks in volume, drawing fresh (damp) air into the enclosure. During the early hours, the air cools further and reaches it's dew point. Condensation forms, starts corroding susceptible parts. A continuous cycle of damp air in /condensation/corrosion, then dry air expelled, damp air drawn in...etc. The corrosion will be due to the electrolytic action of carbonic-acid (CO2)in the condensation, on dissimilar metals, due to the electochemical series; some common metals in order, (more corroded first);
If the bulb base is aluminum/ or aluminised steel, the aluminum corrodes. Unless the condensation is affecting the contacts or wiring, any overheating must be due to the bulb being overwattage for the fitting, since the cap is only a mechanical fastning device*. Voltage? No, unless it's dc, (which can drive electrochemical reactions the other way). Solution? One of the sprays described above, preventing the electrolyte wetting the metal. Alan *Bayonet, not the screw fitting type! Time for a quick name change! regards, Neddy Seagoon.
[This message has been edited by Alan Belson (edited 06-08-2005).]
Wood work but can't!
Re: Incandescent bulb base corrosion#52803 06/08/0510:21 PM06/08/0510:21 PM