ECN Forum Forums Code Related Discussion NEC & other Code issues green grounding screw

Yoopersup,

This thread is about using stranded wire with a grounding screw.

Bill

Guys its been fun but we:re really beating this to death , I;ve brought up books backing what I have to say but like they say in the old days Buy um books , buy um books but all they do is eat the covers. Been fun but really time to move on .

Yoopersup,

With all due respect, you're bringing up things from another thread that are unrelated to this one. Please go back and reread that one because it seems you are arguing a point that that no one disagrees with.

Bill

I have no disrespect for the IAEI...in fact I'm on the board of director's for my local chapter and am very active with them, I am teaching for them next month and sat on a code forum for them last week.
Also, don't look now, but you're the onewho keeps bringing the subject up.

BTW: I'm not interested in your resume, although it is very impressive.

Unless I've missed the point, those green wire grounding pigtails you can buy at the hardware store are made of #12 stranded wire. One end has a spade lug at one end, and an eyelet with a green screw at the other.

With older boxes, I've put the screw into the otherwise unused threaded hole meant for a cable clamp. The box has a clamp on the other side for the cables. I think that this is okay, yes?

In practical terms, for me, the width of the screw head skirt on a ground screw is about the same as the side wired device terminal screw head skirt. It works reasonably well on stranded and fine on solid.

Now, if I'm forced to use a standard 10-32 round head machine bolt for a ground screw, I'd argue that the skirt is so narrow that even solid wire won't reliably terminate under it.

LMAO Ryan Does that mean I should get my 4 year old's opinion on electrical issue?

Simple thing I've done when needing to put a stranded ground wire under a ground screw is strip insulation back on the wire about 8 inches, baring around an inch or so, leave the insulation on the end & twist... bend the bare part of the conductor under the screw & twist the insulated portion a little more, this tightens the strands together & makes it easier to keep all the strands under the ground screw.... Not to mention you now have a length you can attach a device or other ground wires to without adding another pigtail for the box & even if I don't need it, I leave the length in the box in case someone else comes behind me & needs to add something... Less risk of someone improperly grounding whatever they're doing

-Randy

I've had some E-mails about my comment, so let me elaborate on what I am trying to say. The only interpretation of the NEC that is a legal one comes from the CMP's of the NEC, not from any other party. Any other opinion is just that...an opinion. No different than yours or mine legally.

In no way do I mean any disrespect to the IAEI or the author(s) of their publications. As I stated before, I am a member in good standing with the IAEI and appreciate all that they have done for the industry.

"The typical box is REQUIRED to be proved with a tapped hole engraved with the marking GRND or GR that is to be used for that purpose!"

yoopersup, I looked at a few different old works today and didn't see any marking around the location typically where the ground screw would go.

I concur with Joey D. All of the Raco and Steel City 1 gang and gangable device boxes I have in stock are missing the GND marking completely. Only the Raco 232 4x4 boxes with the raised dimple with a tapped hole say GND. I checked Raco 590, 390, 601 and 605. I also checked Raco 145 octagon box with RX clamps. No GND stamp. Now what?