ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area Mounting exterior HID fixtures

The fixtures call out for supply wires rated for 90 degrees, THHN is rated for that. They also say route wiring away from ballasts, if you do that you shouldnt have a problem.

Many fixtures allow for terminations using 90° wire - it's when you use the fixture as a raceway (assuming it's listed/labeled) that the heat becomes a factor and hi-temp conductors must be used. This is something I typically see when running 2 lamp channels(floures.) down a long row.

On RobbiesD's question ~ is the HID fixture as heavy as a ceiling fan? I would be concerned about supporting it on an 8/32 screw.
Mounting the base TO the metal stud using the same type self-tapper that the siding uses would alleviate the weight concern ~ but might not conform to the desired layout.

Using the plywood or unistrut/kindorf method is a great suggestion. If you measure properly, repaired the sheetrock is a small task compared to re-hanging the fixtures in 6 months.

I was relating to certain Ruud fixtures, which specify 105 (or is it 150?) wire for the terminations. With HID, it's one detail to look for in the instructions!

As for appearances. well, you play the hand you're dealt. Strut can have a neat, if 'industrial' look. For a true surface mount, you'll have to arrange that before the inside is finished.

No matter how it's done, toggle bolts are almost inevetable- and I've never been really happy with the large hole necessary for the toggle- I worry about moisture getting in. Maybe I just worry too much.

Another approach- where the inside is left open- is to mount a bracket box to one of the steel purlins, and runs a piece of running thread out the back of the box and into the back of the fixture.

Not sure if this would help. http://www.aifittings.com/whnew63.htm
Doesn't hurt to throw it out there.