|
|
|
0 members (),
392
guests, and
30
robots. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,445 Likes: 3
Cat Servant Member
|
I note that the BC link refers to damage that might occur when the cables are moved after the foam has cured. Well, DUH!
I'll bet even a concrete-rated cable (like UF) would be damaged if you tried to pull it out after the concrete has set. Heck, even steel pipe would 'fail' that test!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,931 Likes: 34
Member
|
Why would anyone waste a $6 can of foam on the thumb sized chunk of sealant you need to draft stop that conduit?
I sure would like to watch the installer try to get that out if he needs to do something with those conductors.
Why not use the right thing? Duct seal is about $2.50 a pound and you can get it out later.
Greg Fretwell
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,382 Likes: 7
Member
|
Duhhh.....
The spray foam is in a nice aerosol can, and if you're careful...you don't get messy!! The duct seal has to be pulled off of a big block & you have to use your hands!!
What can I say Greg.....convenience at $6 a shot!
John
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,445 Likes: 3
Cat Servant Member
|
Are you kidding? I get several months of use from an 'open' spray can. All it takes is to clean the straw and nozzle with some acetone (carburator cleaner has acetone in it) right after each shot. I particularly like the small $3 cans - about the size of a soda can- you can find from time to time.
Sealing is usually the last thing you do - and you're usually sealing wall penetrations and all manner of other openings at the time. Foam? It's what's at hand.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 947
Member
|
Spray foam is very difficult to remove from a conduit. Its bad for the next guy if he needs to replace or add wires. If you want other electricians to hate you, put spray foam inside a raceway.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,445 Likes: 3
Cat Servant Member
|
Oh, I won't deny that. Beats the stars out of opening a Chico-filled explosion-proof seal though. 
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 947
Member
|
Oh, I won't deny that. Beats the stars out of opening a Chico-filled explosion-proof seal though. I didn't know that was possible.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,382 Likes: 7
Member
|
I have seen a few instances of a 'sparky' trying to accomplish what Reno is (hopefully) joking about!!
John
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,445 Likes: 3
Cat Servant Member
|
Oh, I've had to do it. Hours of chipping with improvised chisels until the breakthrough.
Naturally, the wires are ruined.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,273
Member
|
In all of my days...
I've NEVER needed to re-wire the penetration into a chiller.
So you're getting excited over nothing.
If worst came to worst, just abandon the prior conductors and punch another hole; set another j-box next to the prior and carry on.
You're not supposed to cork up anything until the whole unit checks out.
If you're terrified that you've missing something toss in a spare conductor or two. The entire penetration zone is only 6 inches. Scrap conductors that long are all over your spool butts.
------
I've never played Chico & the electrician...
But I understand that warm to hot vinegar does wonders for it.
In which case a suitable nipple full of vinegar screwed into the stopper threads could be heated by electric gun/blower...
And you're making progress.
Tesla
|
|
|
|
Posts: 144
Joined: March 2008
|
|
|
|
|
|
