OK ... here are some of the things that seem to work best for me:
Your 'best' pipe runs are straight up to / through the top plate. These, while quick, will have you consume an amazing amount of pipe. Forget box offsets, etc ... support the pipe using the Caddy CS812 (for regular depth boxes). The clip will let you use the 'inboard' and center KO's of the box.
Place your data pipes first. As these are 3/4" pipes, you'll want to bend the small pipe to go around the larger data pipe, rather than to opposite.
Punch through the top plate using either a stud punch, or a carbide hole saw; the Ideal 36-301, though sold for 3/4 pipe, works quite well for 1/2 fittings. You don't want a big hole, as you will also need to mount a box right there. Face the boxes INTO the rooms, and run your home runs down the hallway. This will let you land your 'feeder' pipes into the backs of the boxes. Set the boxes for receptacles on the 'room' edge of the top plate, and the lighting boxes on the 'hall' side. There's room on the top plate for two runs of pipe.
Plan each pipe run in the wall to have only ONE circuit on it. If there are several circuits in the room, plan on having several separate pipes in the wall. Trust me, it's pure insanity to try to separate circuits in every box! 1 pipe = 1 circuit. This makes the wire pulls easy, and you might even wind up following the print!
Use the boxes on the top plate to combine circuits into 3/4" "feeder" pipes for the home run. Consider using 4-11's on the top plates, for more splicing room.
Where wood blocking is placed in the walls, use DEEP boxes. This will place the KO's beyond the wood - and you probably won't have a lot of room for offsets.
When running between boxes, "cross" your pipes. For an example, imagine that your studs are on the LEFT side of the box. Use the left KO of the box on the left to feed a pipe that runs right to the second box at some distance to the right. After the pipe passes through the last stud, it has room to bend down and hit the center KO of the box to the right, using the pre-punched holes in the studs for passage.
This gives you two problems above each box. Problem #1 is that the holes in the studs are not above the boxes. Using the example from above, here's how you address it: pipes that curve to the left have a slight 'kick' to line up with the holes; pipes that turn to the right go straight up, turn, then have a slight offset to line up with the holes.
Still, you might want to enlarge the existing stud holes. The best tool for doing this is a RIGHT-angle aviation snip- see Malco AV-9. I think Harbor Freight also has a version out. The offset angle of the blades makes reaching into the hole and cutting a pleasure.
