There is no building code that can assure occupants that a given structure will survive a 7.0 quake for the following reasons:
Distance from the fault -- you might be right on top of it...
The nature of the soil -- bad for you if the ground turns 'quick'...
The nature of adjacent soils -- hillsides may come to you -- or completely slide into the sea...
Minor fires after the quake become extreme hazards because equipment, communications and roads are impeded...
.....
The most important things that a homeowner should do and which are surprisingly cost effective is to address shear action and wave motion.
This is done by retrofitting shear walls -- especially to any framing between the foundation and the first main floor. In many warmer areas this 'half-stage' is open for ventilation. Experience and testing shows that such elements fold down like dominos. A shear wall retrofit is as simple as screwing OSB across most of the cripple studs. Construction adhesive completes the attachment. You get the benefit even if only half of the surface area is covered -- so you don't need to sheet the whole panel.
Wave motion is addressed by Simpson Strong-Tie hold-downs widely available at the orange box -- or equivalent brands. These function to hold the framing to the foundation -- corners being a particular concern -- and to stop the roof from flying off. This last feature doubles as protection from ultra-high winds, too.
Millions of homes pre-date shear wall construction mandates. If that means you then you'd be very well advised to attend to it when the weather permits.
If your house doesn't hop off the foundation or separate at the platform or roof line you should do okay.
If a quake hits, shut off the gas ASAP. Fire after the quake must be suppressed promptly. A couple of bottles of fire-extinguisher is not a bad investment.
