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Joined: Jul 2004
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Put in a regular 30a 120v outlet and then serve the 20a circuit from one of these with an S adapter in it
Greg Fretwell
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Joined: Apr 2002
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sparkync: 110.3 (b) relates to mfg installation instructions, and technically the panel is 120/240 volt, 3 wire with a grd.
I have seen the 'hot' spliced with two tails to solve the 'two wires in one lug issue.
John
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Joined: Jul 2004
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It is pretty hard to find a legal answer.
Greg Fretwell
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Joined: Oct 2002
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John and Greg, if you were inspecting my job, would you turn it down because I jumpered the lugs with 120 volts and labeled it "120 volts" on the outside cover? I want to be right, but I don't want to go overboard with it either. thanks and splicing the "hot" wire seems like a suitable compromise to meet Mfg. installation instructions.
Greg and Big B, the connection for the RV will be on the opposite side of the building than the line feed,(building has a 15ft. ceiling, is 45ft. long, and the RV outlet will be near the back on the opposite side). The whole job will be in 1/2 emt. Not really convenient to use one of the options you have shown, but thanks anyway..
Last edited by sparkync; 07/27/13 12:39 AM.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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I would probably hold my nose and accept a 2 pole disconnect with a 20 and a 30 in it but I wouldn't like it. You would certainly need 30a protection on the line side of this feeder (in the house). It would not be a tap.
Greg Fretwell
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Joined: Apr 2002
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I would hold my nose also, after speaking with you.
John
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Joined: Oct 2002
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John and Greg, I wasn't trying to be arrogant at all with my question. I hope you didn't take it that way. There will be a 30 amp breaker ahead of the feeder. The house that the feeder is coming from has already passed rough inspection. I didn't wire it. Most of the time I do work more than is required. That's why I ask these questions to make sure I'm meeting code. The inspectors here may not have even caught the 20 amp recepts. on a 30amp breaker, but because I want to do it right and they trust me, I try my best to do meet the code. John, I did a job a few weeks ago, that your comment would certainly fit. I worked in a customer's yard where the sewage pump went bad and was overflowing in the yard. Had to work in it late one afternoon for about 3 hours and the next morning for about 4 hrs. I wished holding my nose would have done the trick. Thanks for all your comments..
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Joined: Jul 2004
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How much load does he really need to serve in the RV when it is docked at home in the first place? My neighbor had a little pigtail that adapted the RV plug to a 5-15 and that was enough to run a lot of stuff.
Greg Fretwell
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Greg, He told me that he would never be using more than one outlet at a time. I think he is retired. He is going to have a work bench at the back of the building, but the recpts. are just for convenience, no constant load. Only real load will be for his RV. I don't have one, so I really don't know what will be working while plugged up. I guess to keep the refrig. etc. going while it is setting there? Think if it comes down to it, and the AHJ has a problem with it, I could put it all on a 20 amp, and see if that's enough to keep the RV going, unless he's going to be living in it or working in it while it's setting and needs the A/C and cooking equipment?
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Joined: Jul 2004
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I doubt the AC will run on the single pole 30 anyway. You usually need the 240/50a connected for that. Cooking is generally propane except for a microwave. You are left with a mini fridge, lights and the TV on most small RVs. There are land yachts that barely get by on the 240/50. I think this one has 2. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Bobs%20RV.jpg
Greg Fretwell
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HCE727
Delaware County, PA, USA
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